some of you might remember a discussion a few weeks ago about the weights of A series and L series engines. I promised to weigh my L18 before refitting it, so here you go:

Engines

L18 113kg
dry, no manifolds, all accessories fitted except starter. includes flywheel (lightened) and clutch.

A12 85kg
dry, minus starter, water pump, and manifolds. includes lightened flywheel and clutch.

So the tech section looks pretty close.

Gearboxes:

Stanza 5spd 35kg
dry. with mount and my big heavy x-member (2.5kg).

MR30 Skyline stumpy 5spd 37.5kg
with mount & x-member, dry.

120Y 4spd 19kg
with mount & x-member, dry.

I should have weighed the alloy case Celica 5spd in the shed too as that's a common swap thanks to Dellow.

edit 22/09/03 I weighed the alloy case Celica box on the weekend:

Celica 5spd alloy case 29kgs
no x-member or mount, dry. with factory toyota 2T bellhousing.

Bill Sherwood weighed a t series celica split case alloy box at 25kgs dry if that helps.

For something different Atkings rotary whos been tuning rotaries since 1972 in the states, rates the bare 13b at 104kgs without waterpump, starter, manifolds, flywheel, clutch etc.
so maybe thats why Gary hamiltons 1000 is so fast round those curves, especially with the Peri-feral 330hp he claims.

I just got a downdraught 51mm IDA weber and a 45 sidedraft weber to suit a 13b and 10a respectively.
A full extend port (torquier from low rpm) 13b can produce 230hp with the 51 ida and tuned extractors. As where a 10a (to stay in the 2ltr and under class) with the sidedraft will only make 145hp unless I go for a 210hp Peripheral port. As for the amount of work required to fit the 13b as opposed an L18 thats a different challenge.

Thanks for your hard work, this will give us a better measure for what we need to consider.

Did you mod your tunnel for the box to fit or did you have an auto tunnel that made the difference in clearances??

My car has the manual tunnel. only had to remove the mounting bracket (spot welded to the inside of the tunnel) on the drivers side to clear the reverse light. And cut the shift hole a bit longer. Also did some 'massaging' around where the tunnel meets the firewall to make it a little easier to get at the bellhousing bolts when fitting/removing the engine/box. I have since discovered it is almost impossible to change the box without removing the engine.

do you know Bill? I've met him a couple of times and have raced his Sprinter at a Khanacross at the Gold Coast Last year. I was faster by a couple of seconds on each test, but on one run my 12v feed to the dissy came off and I got a DNF (slowest time + 5 sec) for that run so he beat me overall.

Nah dont know Bill but what a laugh to hear your budget beast beat open wheelers that have so much work done to them by "experts like him"

If you have probs with gearbox removal then I will have more than that on my dwarf.

not the openwheeler! his Toyota Sprinter with the wild 4AGE, close ratio T50, TRD LSD, adjustable everything etc etc. He doesn't actually have any open wheeler race cars (anymore) or that NZ Fraser clubman thing he talks about (yet).

I discovered on the weekend that I weighed the L18 with oil in it, not dry like I thought, so you could safely subtract 4.5kg for the 4l of oil. Not a huge difference, but in the interests of a fair comparison...

Good luck with the hillclimb you lucky people who get to see the best up there. unlike us down here..
Just came back from the wreckers and saw a ca20 with 4 valve depressions on the block someone already took the head and it seems that it was a single cam head. I looked at other ca20 engines and they had no valve reliefs or only two. Do you know if the ca20 can receive the twin cam head from the ca18 and if its worthwhile. I question this because the block seems lighter than the L20 by seeming shorter and very compact. Perhaps this block was a die cast block and not sandcast, which could make it thinner and more compact???
As you can see Im still looking at nissan options other than rotary. Oh it also had extractors with the sohc pattern exhausts. Unless the ca18 has also the same exhaust pattern it had to be a soch.

I am currently doing a simalar modification. I have a L20B which i am putting in a 1200 wagon. All i did was drill out the spot welds on the stanza engine mounts and welded them onto the 1200 cross member, the thing is that it sits too high that i can't close the bonnet properly and it needs to sit further back. I have the original 4 speed attached to the engine which came with it. As L18_B110 had said, yes i had to cut the spot welded gearbox cross member mount bracket out and cut the gear stick hole bigger. L18_B110 or anyone who has done the same, i'm asking what did you do for the gear box cross member and mounts (photos if possible) and did you just chop the engine mounts shorter and move them back and weld (that just sounds too simple).Any info would be muchly appreciated as i want to beat my brother who has a 1000 2door sedan with a A15, cam, head work, extractors etc. Cheers, Macca

I don't have photos of the gearbox x-member. mine runs to the 'chassis rails' (if you can call them that) on either side of the floorpan, and has a plate tacked to the inside of those rails, with 2 nuts welded to each plate, so the mounts are concealed with captive nuts. You could bolt it through the floor with reinforning plates inside.

And yes, just modify the engine mount brackets on the motor to sit the engine as low and rearward as possible. be careful of clearance from the sump to the drag link as it raises a little as you turn.

does anyone know what is the weight of standard L-16?
barpk

Engine weights are (in Kg's)
A12 - 87
A14/15 - 93
CA18DE - 113
CA16 - 113
L16 - 113
L18 - 118
CA18ET - 118
CA18DET - 128
L18SSS - 133
L20B - 137
SR20DE - 139
FJ20DE - 144
SR20DET - 149
FJ20DET - 166