Heya's all,

Finally got around to scanning the pics of my car. The scanner we used wasnt very good, hence, the pics arent very good.
I'm gonna scan them again.....maybe.

Check 'em out, see what you think.

I'm going to keep the car the way it is. I was gonna do a few mods to it to make it better, but realised it was too original to start taking things off
and replcing them.

Only thing that isnt original is the air filter, and probably the exhasut system (since i've just taken it off, and am now looking for a new one).

Lemme know what you think, thanks

-Jesse

Sorry, should have mentioned......

pics are in album "val_and_datto_dudes cars"

Hi Jesse,
It is hard to beat the "put the key in and drive" reliability of the 1200 in its stock form. When a person starts modifying the car, that reliability goes down and more work and money is
needed to keep it on the road. I got another 1200 last weekend but I haven't started working on it yet. I will completely restore this one and modify he next one I get. I will use more
comfortable seats in it though as the seats in it now are ragged out. Jesse, at your age money is tight and if you aren't careful, you may end up trashing parts if you hot rod it too
much. Usually the clutch is the first thing to go out then the transmission. Take it easy on the wheel spin until you have another clutch to put in it.

hey mareo ive got a gx head with 6mm shaved, extractors on a a14 have tried several new clutches but when i accelerate they still seam to produce the same smell in the
cabin, should i not accelerate or is there a cheap conversion for my ute, it runs 5 speed sunny 195/14s rear approx 140hp im told by the experts?? buzzard thanks

When I had the turbo in my first 1200, I had clutch slip also. I never did fully get it to stop. A new clutch would start to slip very soon after I woulld put one in. The 9 inch clutch
is just too small and there isn't a lot of room to put in a very much larger clutch. I never found a solution, maybe Sterlingmac or someone else has worked out the problem. I did get a
three pronged pressure plate that seems to work but I have never had it in a high horsepower motor. It was on the A14 when I bought it. I had never seen the three pronged plate in a
Datsun before, just the diaphram pressure plate. The motor is close to the stock 65 HP. I never try to spin the tires though, I got over tearing up the car years ago.

Hello Datsohollics,

>When I had the turbo in my first 1200, I had
>clutch slip also. I never did fully get it to
>stop. A new clutch would start to slip very soon
>after I woulld put one in. The 9 inch clutch is
>just too small

I too, have built my share of high hp, high torque turbo motors, but believe me, they don't even come close to the kind of torque electric motors crank out! While the clutch I mentioned
failed under the stress of 500+ instantaneous ft. lbs. of torque, I'm confident it could handle any type of gas power, turboed motor you could stuff into a 1200. It had a solid copper three
point disc and a pressure plate, and even though it was activated hydraulicly, it would give your calf muscles a real workout.
Even in a built-up turbo motor that could come up with say, 400 lbs. of torque, that torque doesn't happen instantly, and instead, it has a ramp up. Electric motors don't care about
rpm...they jam out FULL torque at...get this, zero rpm! Additionally, that torque stays flat as a ruler until the motor controller comes out of current limit, which in the case of my drag
race 1200, is around 5500 rpm.
The clutches that only hold up for a short while under the extreme stress of electric motor torque, work very well for gas engines without slipping. When we electric drag racers first
contacted clutch experts, they gave us their toughest, baddest clutches to try out....they all failed. The clutch I've referred to was specially design from scratch to handle abnormal
torque loads.

>I never try to spin the tires though, I got over
>tearing up the car years ago.

Wheel spin isn't something one 'tries' to do with an electric, it just happens...trust me. In drag racing, when the lights say 'go' and you tromp down hard, even with wrinkle wall drag
slicks, wheel spin is a constant problem with electrics. As far as 'tearing up the car', that used to happen all the time... the electric motor has twisted off tranny input shafts, sheared
off too many axles to list, discintegrated clutches, mangled drivelines, etc. However, as the car is now, without a flywheel, clutch, and tranny, there's only the driveline and rear end to
worry about, but with the custom-made extreme duty driveline and a big 'ol Ford 9 inch rear end, there's not too much to break anymore and mechanically, the car is very reliable.

See Ya......John Wayland
Going electric drag racing in Las Vegas March 10th

This electric car you refer to, is it a hybrid or battery powered? I've been thinking of doing a hybrid (small gas engine running a generator and electric motor driving the car)
for some time now. I'd like to know more about what you have done.

A couple of things might help your problems. When you fitted the new clutch plate did you get the flywheel refaced/machined? It may have some hard spots and the clutch plate may be slipping
on these. I use the E15 Turbo pressure plates on all my big A series and have no trouble. The B110 ute pressure plate for the A15 engine has a higher clamping pressure but does'nt have the
rpm rating of the E15 turbo. Another trick we used to do when I was younger and short on cash was to machine a step on the flywheel face 1.5 to 2mm deep no more, where the pressure plate
sits on the flywheel. This gives a higher clamping force and may help solve your slipping problems.

A stock clutch is pretty weak, especially on an engine that's been built at all. Centerforce does make a clutch that's better than stock for the 210. Just go to http://www.centerforce.com
to look it up. Also Tilton makes a lightweight aluminum flywheel and triple disk racing clutch for the A series, it's rated to over 9,000 rpm, but is pricey. I could've had the flywheel and
clutch for only $300, but the heavier steel flywheel is good for the street and drag racing. Nissan Motorsports makes performance clutches for the 1200/210 as well, it's in their catalog.
I'm starting to look for a good clutch for my dogleg 5 speed that I'm going to be putting in soon. Does the E15 Turbo clutch (entire assembly) bolt right onto the A12 flywheel?

-Andy

mate, john i was wondering if you could post some pictures of this"Electric" car as
it sound real interesting.
,cheers
"numbnuts"