I had a sunny it was an 80 model with a CA18DET 5 speed hilux diff and 11" ford ventilated front brakes .The autometer boost guage fits perfect in place of the old clock the 3/3/8 series tach fit in place of the old tacho but these days you can get your instruments modded for different signals , hilux diff was a 84 model stock width I ran toyota camry FWD offset rims on the rear and EB falcon rims on the front as it was the correct offset as I ran hubcaps anyway was all 5 stud ford pattern anyway. I also changed the fuel tank to a pulsar one so as to fit a better exhaust it was 3" mandrell bent all the way , actually still have it if you are interested , and still have the spearco cored intercooler to suit as well check my pics for the sunny not the best as they were scanned in but that was almost 12 years ago lots of fun , blew away many cars as who suspects a sunny .
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9217
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9216
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=9222
there are more on there but you get the general idea .

BTW the exhaust and intercooler are for sale on datnet with pics .

http://datnet.org/Sunny-1200-Spearco-Core-Intercooler-t6694.html

http://datnet.org/Sunny-3-Mandrell-Bent-Exhaust-Ca18det-t6693.html


Nick.

Nice Nick. Very much a sleeper! I'd like to run hubcaps, but bin lid hubbies if i can find them. Maybe an old crown or the like had them?
The whole exhaust will be hidden, so the Pulsar tank is not a bad idea also. Fake tip of course! And yeah, the boost gauge will be going in to the clock area, tacho stays as warning lights are in there.

Hmm, hilux diff. I wonder if my lux would hold up with a Sunny one in there. Straight swap...
Picked up an A/C compressor today, will see how that fits up over the weekend. I'll start on the easy things first, and move onto other parts of the car as money and bits come in.

I still have the pea shooter tip that slips in to the 3" rear muffler it was 1'" or 1.5" can't remember but Iv'e seen it lurking in my scrap bin , mine was a sleeper tiny tip black cooler hubbies etc tinted windows so you couldn't see the guages .the hilux is simple can't break one plenty of LSD centres available eg my brother just bought a complete centre for his hilux LSD and 4.3 was off e-bay 400 bucks or get a new true track 700 and add fitting approx 100 -300 if it need's new bearings . the 84 was narrow enough welded all the brackets on off the sunny diff easy to get them off the datto diff as they only had a few tack weld's on them so a grinder sorts them out quick smart . recently there was a hilux with discs on e-bay ,or the r31 they are 1460 disc to disc I just used one in my Lexus V8 HR conversion so no matter what unless you want to narrow a diff they are all a bit wide or run shallow offset rims at least the R31 you won't pay for a stud pattern change saving 150 narrowing about 4-500 with mounts done . ask anything I've done this one before.

Nick

even if you want to use it for hill climb u can buy an atb centre and it will be better than an lsd. power transmition is more reliable

hey just came across this thread.thats a real clean sunny and an exciting swap.i just love b310s man. cant wait to see when its finished!!

this is an sr20 b310(120y) that was for sale in trinidad for $25000.i really like this car!

http://www.trinicarsforsale.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/123_2.jpg
http://www.trinicarsforsale.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/123_8.jpg
http://www.trinicarsforsale.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/123_5.jpg
http://www.trinicarsforsale.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/123_10.jpg

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Yeah, the little sunny has bitten me again too! I had one as my first car, that's probably why I still love the things..

I haven't really done a great deal lately. The interior is now stripped. Seats and carpet are gone. The dash is out and I've fitted a boost gauge in to the coupe cluster.
I have started fitting parts of the A/C system such as the air box and duct work. I will be getting all new lines made up and the compressor bracket may need modifying when the gearbox is fitted properly.

Here's the dash..


More progress to come shortly!

Ok, so my update took a little longer than expected.. Who saw that coming!

What I have done is finally get everything bolted up into place. The gearbox is through into the cabin, and I mean into it!! Took a tiny bit more metal out than I anticipated but everything appears to be lined up quite well.

As you can see below I have some fabrication work to make it all look pretty & legal again..






Good to see her out in the sun again :)



In regards to the first pic, here is an email i received from the engineer. My dad and I think we get what he is on about (after much deliberation), but am going to clear it up before I start welding!
Any explanations welcome..

My email:

Just needed an opinion on how the gearstick/box has entered through the tunnel. As you can see a little bit more steel had to come out than anticipated. On one of the pictures I have sketched in (going on the RHS 20 x 20 you mentioned), where I think the strengthening could possibly go. I marked in yellow where I think it has to go, and in yellow/blue where extra can be added- would definitely need your opinion on this please.
Once the strengthening went in, I would then add a cosmetic piece of sheet steel to seal the area and attach the gearstick boot to that.
Any other ideas would be fantastic.

Reply email: We think he is mixing up the front with the back in his description... u decide!

Carl, frame up yellow with 20 x 20 and fully MIG fillet weld.
Can only go across tunnel ahead of gear lever.
behind the full rectangular area fill to height of 20 x 20 over tunnel with 3 mm steel fully fillet welded.
then cover in over the top to behind the lever hole and with a lever hole to the 20 x 20.
The old lever hole at the rear plate over with 1.6 mm, edges overlap by 5 to 10 mm and fully MIG weld.
Top side fillet welds should be adequate.

Account for progressive advice $150.



The only other update is I have had a chap look at intercooler/radiator set-up and will get those sorted soon. Am going to make a list of all the small bits & pieces to do, so I have things to do while waiting on cash...

Is that the only mod to the tunnel you have had to do ? No massaging around bell housing or anything ?

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Did I read this right?
Did he just charge you $150 to email you this advice? or is there more to it?