Hey thanks everyone for the help! I dont think i'll put a rebuild kit through them yet cause Andrew did them not long before. I'll take them apart and basically clean any shite thats
in it. I might get a bottle of that cleaning stuff and some carby clean. I have pulled other carbs apart and they were easy enough but i dont wanna bugger up the webers! I'll just take
my time and make sure everything goes back were it came off. Again, thanks for the help everyone. cyaz

Scott
Davo

THE L-18 ( ex 180b sss)is intended to be fitted into a 1200 ute.
Im just curious why it isnt a popular conversion with 1200 owners when these motors are cheap and in abundance also not to forget the availability of
a 5 speed gearbox.

Are there any mods that need to be done with the crossmember and what about height clearance with the bonnet etc?

can u elaborate on your comments about the L-18 being intended for the 1200 uterus...
i know eventually i will become tired with my a15 (if i ever get to drive it), so i am always
thinking of future mods......
What can u tell us about this mod? do the boxes fit into the tunnels easily?
Cheers, Linc.

Hello Datsohollics and 1200 fanatics,

>The conversion is straight forward if you have the >right car to start with. The prefered model
>is the auto trans model as the tunnel is way
>bigger. I doubt you will fit any of the L series
>gearboxes neatly into a manual trans shell.

Thanks for pointing out what I omitted. Yes, we discovered afterwards, that indeed, the automatic 1200s came with enlarged tunnels. When we found the car in a wrecking yard (it was in
surprisingly good condition), turning it into a drag car wasn't even in our minds. If we had it to do all over again, the autoversion would be the best choice...but then again, for me and
my drag racing habbit, electric motors are now my choice :-0
When I recentlty changed from an 11 inch single motor to a pair of 8 inch motors, with the motors connected together end-to-end, the longish settup has the rear-most motor actually slipping
deep into the tranny tunnel...good thing I don't need to use a tranny!

See Ya....John Wayland

Hey John, how does the inline elctric motor setup work? Also, where does one get an electric motor for an automotive setup? I've toyed with the hybrid idea a few times but don't
know where to get a motor. As an aside, shouldn't it be Voltman336v or did I miss the joke? Tim

Yeah the L-series are great motors and cheap too. To fit one into a 1200 you'll need to massage the trans tunnel, modify the sump, dish the cross member and, of course, fabricate the engine
mounts. If you like stopping and going around corners then you'll need a front end upgrade too. You can end up with 150 HP relatively easily. However they are a tall, heavy motor and I
wouldn't be choosing to go down that path as there are better options out there now. If you are keen to stay normally aspirated then I'd look at the CA18DE or the SR20DE if only because
they are worthy of the 1200. Philisophically if you want a 70's motor it should be a well-sorted A series. I'm guessing you can score a twin carb L series pretty cheaply so that's a plus
but you have a lot of work in front of you - I'd be tempted to throw down a little more cash, and drop a CA18DE in - it'll be less work in the long run.

dude,

Weber rebuilds are piss easy. I did my friends, coz he's got triples on his car. When you open 'em up, you can see how easy and simple they are. I put together a weber
from scratch, everything was in pieces. Took me half hour, and i didnt have any prior knowledge or sheets.

Took me half a day to clean three of them. and plus, rebuild kits for those are heaps cheap! something like 24 bucks?

There's only one thing i had a problem with....that damn pin that holds the float in place. But that was solved in a matter of minutes, so it didnt bother me.

cyaz

Hello Datsohollics and 1200 fanatics,

>Hey John, how does the inline elctric motor setup >work?

The two motors are mounted in a long-ish aluminum tray that serves as both motors' engine mounts, and they are bolted and clamped into place, end-to-end. Each motor has twin shafts, with the
ouptut shaft of the forward motor (closest to the radiator opening) connected to the rear shaft of the rear motor (the one that is about halfway into the tranny tunnel) with a toothed colar
that meshes with gear-like spools on the motors' shafts that locks them together so they run as a team. The output shaft of the rear motor has a keyed hub that looks like the yoke of a rear
end, and this attaches to a cutom-made, extreme duty driveline I had made for the car. There is a center carrier bearing mounted near to where the original tranny cross member was. The
driveline goes straight into the yoke of a 9 inch Ford diff with 4:11 gears...no flywheel, no clutch, no tranny.

>Also, where does one get an electric motor for an
>automotive setup?

There are four main players that build EV size series-wound type motors that we 'EVers' use....Prestolite, Advanced DC, GE, and NetGain/Warfield. By far the most popular, are the Advanced DC
motors. They make them from 6.7 inch, to 8 inch,. to 9 inch, with the 9 inch the most popular of all. The 9 inch can make anywhere from 40 hp to over 300 hp, depending on how much jiuce you
want to jam into it. In Rod Wilde's 'Maniac Mazda' RX7 EV, there are two 9 inch ADC motors cranking out in excess of 500 hp....go to <www.nedra.com> to see it pulling a full wheel stand! I
The GE motors have been around for a long time, and they are really heavy duty. The Prestolote motors are more of the same...very rugged. The electric boat racers actually submerge the
Prestolites at the back of the small hydros they race for cooling! I went to Warfield Electric in Chicago to have them custom build the NetGain motors, and I am using two of the high output
8's in my 1200 drag car. I use an ADC 9 inch in my street 1200, 'Blue Meanie'.

>I've toyed with the hybrid idea a few times but
>don't know where to get a motor.

I can sell you a Netgain motor, and if you go to the NEDRA page, you'll find a banner for 'Wilde EVolutions' who sell ADC, GE, Prestolite, and other motors, too.

>As an aside, shouldn't it be Voltman336v or did I >miss the joke? Tim

When my 1200 was featured as the world's first electric soundoff car in the March '95 issue of 'Car Audio and Electronics' magazine, they did a cool picture of the car inside a hydroelectric
dam, and made it look as if lightning bolts were coming from my hands...hence, 'Boltman'...the '336v' part is the voltage of the battery pack in my other 1200, White Zombie, my drag car.
If you want to see this picture, go to:

<http://members.nbci.com/evalbum/>

Once there, page down to the categories and find the alphabetical section for theDatsun-Nissan page...once there, you'll find my Datsuns.

See Ya....John Wayland

Boltman; I get it, like lightning. Sorry, I'm slow sometimes. Thanks for the info on electric motors. What are your thoughts on pure battery power vs hybrid (gasoline generator
powering the motors)? Sorry to keep asking about hybrids, they just seem like the way to go for me. I would think that a generator would weigh less than all those batteries or am
I a dimwit?

Hello Datsohollics and 1200 fantatics,

>What are your thoughts on pure battery power vs
>hybrid (gasoline generator powering the motors)?

Well, I'll start out by saying that besides my two electric 1200s, I also have a 2000 Honda Insight hybrid, too!

>Sorry to keep asking about hybrids, they just seem >like the way to go for me. I would think that a
>generator would weigh less than all those
>batteries or am I a dimwit?

It goes like this...one of the main reasons for many (including me) for building and driving electric, is to get away from OPEC dependent, air-polluting gasoline. Using a gas generator instead
of batteries, defeats the purpose instantly. Additionally, a pure electric is totally vibration free...why would I want a shaking, vibrating, reciprocating gas engine back in the car to ruin
this? An electric is almost totally silent (makes it easier to hear the tires burning!)...why would I want a shaking, vibrating, reciprocating gas engine back in the car to ruin this? When
charged by hydro electric, wind electric, solar electric, etc., EVs that run on rechargeable batteries are pollution free...zero emissions, and I like that very much. Even when 1000's of EVs
are driving around that were charged off of the grid that may be supplied by fuel-fired generators, the resultant pollution is about 1% the level compared to 1000's of gasoline powered cars.
OK, I'm now off my high horse enviro-mode....from a power fiend's view, batteries pack WAAAYYY more whollop for high performance EV driving, than a gas generator could ever produce.I can pull
2000+ amps intantaneously from a battery pack....to do this with a gas generator, the generator would need to be the size of an appartment building. The gas generator is a good idea though,
for extending the limited range of an EV's batteyr pack, because in this mode, the generator only needs to supply enough 'oomph' to keep the car rolling down the highway, so the generator can
be fairly small. But, keep in mind that you now have a gasoline car again, not an electric anymore.
My Honda Insight is a wonderful hybrid that gets an easy 75 mpg on the freeway, and over 100 mpg at 45 mph! It is also one of the cleanest cars on the planet, next to a pure electric. Because
it has an electric motor and a small battery pack on board, instead of being a guttless wonder with its tiny 1000cc engine, instead, it gets crisp 2nd gear rubber and accelerates pretty good
(especially for a car that gets 75+ mpg! All this said though, when I don't need the range of the Insight (it can go 800-900 miles ona a 10.9 gallon tank), I can most often be found driving my
electric 1200 instead, as it will blow the doors off my Insight, is much cooler looking (though the teardrop Insight is pretty rad), and is smooth, silent, and oh-so-torquey!

See Ya.....John Wayland