'well done guys'....hmmm unless you were referring to me and my beers?

I did it on my own but Andy provided advice on the sandwiching of the springs [phone a friend!]. Let it be emphasized that this is only a temporary solution until I get my springs properly reset, I don't encourage this procedure but for the budget-ers this is a pretty effective option until you get the cash to reset springs.

As for the ride, I can't say too much as I have only driven it a couple of times, I would honestly say that I think corners a little better but I think this may be my imagination.

Suspension-wise if feels pretty good. No bouncier or stiffer than before, maybe ask me in a week or two and my opinion may have changed?

Just curious, but what part are you refering to as a "bump stop" in the front suspension?

I think you are describing the block between the lower suspension arm & the spring which the factory calls a "Support Rubber - Front Spring" These may still be available under the part number 54220-18000
There was even an optional one for cars with 'cooler' [airconditioning] It is part number 54220-18001 but I don't like our chances.


Cuting this rubber is actually the best method of lowering the front as it retains full suspension movement without needing to cut the compression bump stop & you can restore the original ride height if necessary by simply fitting uncut rubbers.
Best of both worlds.

Great looking car by the way Chris. It reminds me of the green one that I did for my wife about 20 years ago, except that I didn't lower it.
I did, however, fit a built-up 1200 engine with mild cam, A10 pistons, KB10 exhaust & an import A14 carb with electric choke. [Ya know what bloody women are like.] It performed surprisingly well.
I used widened 12" wheels with some nice 12" Bridgestone rubber. I bought & chromed a set of standard 1200 Dogdish hubcaps & ran it all with some stainless 12" trim rings.
Baldy caps, trim rings & painted widened rims, ... it looked fabulous & so does yours.

Hello Dodgeman,

Yeah 'bump stop' is all I have ever called it, although it is pretty much irrelevant to the purpose it actually serves.

Support Rubbers are more appropriate. I can understand what you mean about retaining suspension movement and I'm glad to hear it isn't going to affect anything in a negative manner.

The engine is obviously too much for what I need but my options are pretty limited at the moment as the A10 in the car needs a rebuild. [It still runs superb but she puffs a good plume when she's been idling and suddenly cops a foot to the accelerator, then there is a little knock which is pretty concerning]. Plus I've spent all this effort on the rip snorter, might as well see how she goes.

Here is a picture of the piece in concern. I forgot to mention the removal of the radius rod [is that the correct term?] as well, this enables the LCA to drop a little further and thus allowing easier access to the support rubber.

Radius rod, strut rod & a few others have all been used & are all probably correct.
I'm too tired to get the parts book for the factory name but I know what you mean.

If you are running the stock drum brakes, then a little care with throttle work & you should be good. The brakes, when in sound mechanical condition, will work well, but of course they were designed for a light & slow car. Up the pace a bit & &, .... well you know the situation as well as I do so no point in rattling on.

Just take care & all will be right with the world.

Looks grouse Chris,could do with a good wash and polish though...ha ha,i think it's fair to say you have the best looking B10 i've seen on this site or that i'm aware of in Oz,well done again.
If you ever lower the front on another B10 again let me know as there are a few short cuts to speed up the process.Front drum brakes,if set up properly work just as well as as anything else on the 1000,i was able to out stop standard 1200's,120Y's and minis in competition with the KB10,although 50 or more laps of high speed stops may have revealed some short comings,again there are things to do,but for road use i would'nt bother.
NOTE The KB10 has a big bore 1200 up front.

Cheers

excellent info, should be added to wiki

Thanks a bunch for the compliments.

She's going into surgery this afternoon/tonight. And she should emerge in a couple of weeks(at the most) with a much more impressive powerhouse.

I have a couple of 5 speed vanette boxes at home (PNG) that I will bring back with me so the new year should see the 5 speed column shift introduced back into the little red riding hood.

As for brakes, I have the parts to make a disc setup but I just need the time to sit down and muck around with it all.

The conversion will be completely documented to help people gauge exactly how much work is involved to help pinpoint where their biggest complications may lie.

looks good chris, rear method is the same as what i did on the 1200, the front of the 1000, thats what id like to see in more detail.

your magic package should arive soon, and will dress up the car more ;)

will follow with interest!!! 5 speed column shift what a dream cruiser!

wen i cut mine i used a wood saw and that did fine but good to hear u got it done i was gonna give u a call this arvo and c how u went but now i kno
looks good man did u notice it to b much stiffer in the back??