Thanks for the compliments guys. Mik camera is a $100 pentax optio, probably less nowadays.

The shim is still going well. At first I hadn't re-wired the dizzy, when I cranked it I just assumed it was losing compression so I was very impressed when it all fired up.

Removing the head gasket next and running the head shim and head bare to see if this works out, this'll bump the CR as well. I guess you could use two gaskets but I'm not sure how long they'll last. Keep in mind I'm testing something I'm about to sell so I'm not really interested in alternatives.

Dan those arms are all good, just a tiny bit of play, about 0.5mm so I'm looking at buying new parts from Nissan. I really like how they fit though, very tight and secure. You be careful working on those Alfa's Dan they'll wear you out!

Took it for another drive today and had a little issue with the cooling system, seems my thermostat has decided to give up all of a sudden, quick retreat after that incident.

Really hoping a dyno session will iron out the little flutters and bogging with the carbs as the engine is a bit of work to drive when down low.

Will be interesting to see if these shims work like copper headgaskets.
I wonder if brass would be a better (bloody expensive Im sure) for less
corrosion or is copper the same? Maybe someone could chime is if Stainless
steel could be used? You could almost make MLS ones with that template Chris!

Brass would be worse - the zinc will make a sacrificial anode and leave swiss cheese copper left. Copper is the best on its own I think.

How about stainless? A speedway racer and engineer said it was common for copper
head gasket users to just spray cheap $2 enamel paint instead on their brodex v8
and some have been racing for 4 years without pulling the heads off.
Old bogons tale or fact I dont know????

Yeah stainless can be used to shim the head to change CR ratio but a sealant is still needed - where as copper it seals on its own once annealed.

Surely in today's day and age there must be a sealant where you apply it to the block and the head (once they are machined nice and flat) and all you have to do is bolt it together with out gaskets etc. Is there anything else than loctite 515 (its not high enough temp I think)?

The head shim works like a head shim. I’m not sure how a copper head gasket 'works' so I don’t know how a mild steel head shim can work like a copper head gasket. I just assume you use a head shim to reduce comp ratio? what else does a copper one do apart from seal on it's own?

Copper is expensive, and cannot be laser cut by the laser cutters I have spoken to (unless the order is worthwhile). So I’m not keen on the $180+ price tag.

ACL head shims at 1.5mm thick cost about $110.00, datsonovic has had a bad experience with one of these corroding badly on his 280. I need something thicker than 1.5 anyhow.

The tube of hylomar I bought was about $15.00, the head shim being a trial piece cut from off-cut material (with minor surface rust) was less than a quarter of the cost of what I was quoted for a copper head gasket made (even tried off-shore for the hope of a cheaper price).

Stainless steel? It’s a matter of cost. I don’t think the mild steel head shim will corrode, not if everything is kept in check. Either way I’m pulling the head every now and then to keep a close eye on it.

Finally sorted the acceleration flutter;

http://www.youtube.com/v/RrztRE1O-Sg

Nice one Chris, sounding great!
I like the bit at the end where you scratch your head like you just got yrself completely lost ;)

Yknow trying to find seat covers for those Cobras are impossible?
Might have to make something up, (with the help from the mrs)

Yeah sweet ride this one, Love the sound of a healthy A series.

Yeah it goes alright, got to get my jets sorted out still (and then rebuild the engine). It's still running rich. Scully, I was going to re-upholster the seats in the original factory colour. But that's expensive.... so not sure now.