I located the headlight problem, it was the main red wire connector off the fuse block to the light switch, it seemed to be intermittent & a bit loose. After turning on the headlights for a few moments (min. or 2) I noticed the fuse holder moving in the block & was getting quite warm. I pulled the block & the fuse holder had warmed the plastic enough to come out...




How do I determine what the cause of the additional draw is that caused the melting? They're halogen lamps if that matters & could it just be that small movements of the wire connector or fuse holder end creating more resistance or do I have a larger problem somewhere?

My concern is if I replace the fuse block it'll happen again & would like to avoid that. Also, I'll need another fuse block if anyones got one they'd sell me that'd be great - I dont need the cover either.

Suggestions on where to start would be helpful.

Also, when the Wiki refers to the "Dimmer" switch does that just mean the Hi-low switching between the two? I also think of a dimmer as the dash lights being dimmed downed but obviously they dont do that.

Thx.

e

I had the same problem with my fusebox. I wired up some headlight relays right next to the battery. Made my headlights 10x brighter an the fusebox is not as warm anymore. Maybe give that a try.

If they are just standard headlights or standard halogens, don't worry. Those fuse boxes get hot if the wiring is loose, it has happened to many people. Just fit a new fuse box. You can still buy them new, they are the same as Datsun 620 pickup.

If you have fitted H4 or other high-powered headlights then do fit a headlight relay.

The dimmer is the high-beam/low-beam switch in the turn signal assembly. In some countries it is called the "dipper". B210 has variable dash light illumination and that is called a dimmer, rheostat or illumination control.

i agree with username, i melted a couple of fuse panels countless fuses and burnt my finger many times trying to eliminate this problem.

Using the original wiring loom as a signal wire for a relay and a new power source direct from battery is a great solution. This also takes a great deal of the electrical load off the old supply to pretty much everything in the rest of the car, and therefore should just make life a little easier for the entire 40 year old electical circuits/loom

the brass terminals in the fuse box oxidize/tarnish with age
resulting in high resistance,at the teminal that the spade teminal
goes on and at conection between terminal and fuse
tighten spade terminals
lightly bead blast fuse box terminals, dont use rusty fuses
and run anything other than std thru relays

Thanks guys. I kinda figured this was a somewhat common problem & no I'm not running HID lightsd but was thinking about it, I guess if I go that route I'll definitely use a relay setup for that.

Quote:

1200rally - those giant bat signal spotlights mounted on your hood make mine look so puny , i think I have headlight envy! Your idea makes sense & if I step it up to HID I'd do that, maybe will anyways just to unload the fuse block a bit - couldn't hurt.

And Tommo's idea is pretty much what I was guessing - too much resistance thru the block & tarnished connectors & spades. They actually look like they're bronzed not bright brass so pretty understandable. Hopefully thats the only reason & I'll buy a box of new fuses as well, seems prudent.

Thanks all.

Oh yeah, is there a part number for a 620 fuse box?

Yep, agree with Tommo. The bad connection will cause the heat so your fault was at that specific terminal.

It doesn't matter how big the load is, it will be the weakest point that will heat up, be that undersized conductor or high resistance joint/connection etc.

Relays are a great (and cheap) way of improving the output of the lights but they absolutely must still have a fuse, especially seeing as most of the load will probably not be going through the std fuse box anymore depending on how you wire them..

sounds good, now to just figure out which part # is the correct one in the Wiki....

sounds like its under control, I wasn't referring to the "afraid of the dark" mobile, just on another road car that i had the same problem

at the end of the day all power in the standard 1200 goes through that one wire with the fusible link. pulling some load out of that wire after 40 years service i still think is a great idea

HID's in your normal lights are illegal in Aus unless the car came with them standard, i believe the cars that came with them standard have a device that lowers the headlight aim if the back suspension compresses, to prevent blinding of other drivers

tommo was right - I cleaned up the fuse block & all the fuses, reinstalled it & all is well. No more heat up, took the spades & fuse holders back to shiny brass & seems to be fine. I did go ahead & order another fuse block to be on the safe side, also got the dome light to work & even the door buzzer.

Funny thing on the buzzer, the dash seat belt light seems to flicker when fiddling with the door switch, I need to look at the circuit for that & see what makes it work.

As far as HID's over here I really dont know if they're any laws regarding their use, should probably check before going down that road. I'm going to guess there isn't as its pretty unregulated over here as to what you can do to a car over 30 yr's old, certainly not like what you guys deal with. When its all sadi and done all I have to do to put this car on the road is go buy tab's for it as its already titled in my name.