Ok guys i know im new here but here is my issue.

I have owned my datsun 1200 for sometime now but finally the A15 in her has decided to die on me. Now i have acquired from a mate a L18 which has been blue printed, bored to a 2.1 and has forged internals with twin 40mm side draft webers and a extractor kit, And to my luck has already had the sump changed to a front mount sump.

Now i have never completed an engine swap, just needing some help.

I have tried to do as much research as i can with the L18 engine swap, understanding that i will be needing to modify the existing 1200 engine cross member for the engine to fit, now my main questions are as follows;

1. If i am to use an R30 5 speed stumpy gearbox on the L18 will the tunnel need to be modified and will the rear cross member need modifications as well? (As the L engine swap page advised you wont have to modify the tunnel for a stumpy as the hole lines up but thought id double check, as well their is no input if the rear cross member needs work.)
2. When using the R30 gearbox will the tail shaft need to be changed as well as the diff or can i get by using the original's in the mean time to get by? Or would it be best to just swap it out for an r31 diff and get a shortened tail shaft?
3. Most likly will need an emissions test to pass rego any pointers to get it passable?
4. With these changed will i be needing a full brake upgrade and if so whats the best option (Currently running disk front/drum back)?
5. For the hydraulic clutch assembly does anyone have pointers on how to complete this?
6. For the electrical side of things i have no idea on what will need to be changed, im assuming for the cable side of things (accelerator cable and speedo cable should use the same connections) but on the electrical side any pointers?
7. Suspension and stability, will the strut assembly and front end need to be changed along with the sway bars for the extra weight?

I love my little datsun and only have a budget of $10000.00 to complete this which would include rego, insurance and engineering.

I have not started the project as of yet as im still up in the air what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has completed a L18 swap or L engine swap id love some pointers. (Or if possible link me to some forum's or posts)

Start reading here

You will need auto tail shaft as input shaft same as into stumpy box. Will need shortening but you will need to upgrade diff to atleast h165 or similar.

Tunnel swap recommended, also use min stanza or 200b brakes.

You will need emissions gear fir the l engine and that wont plug into webbers most likely.

also this
i disagree with the tunnel comment, -engineer i doubt would pass it as theres not 20mm clearance all round.

pm or ask if you need more info. Pigdog did the hard stuff on mine... whch was most of it to me lol.

i know the theory but have two left hands that have two left hands (no im not tasmainian).

datsandy, baldy, b110 sedan and a few others have done the conversion. L18 would be easier than L 20b due to block height.

you will need to do a custom transmission mount too. possibly move the mounts as well.

2oob speedo cable gets it all working ok, but you really need a speedo correction box to get it 100% accurate.

Great swap for the 1200- L series should have been stock not A series.

Just checking would it be possible to run my existing A12 5 speed box (Sunny 120y box) onto the L18 with the use of a new bell housing and adapter plate?

You could sell your 5 speed and probably have change left over for buying an l18 and stumpy gear box ready to bolt in!

The 60 series 5 speed won't bolt up and it wouldn't be worth doing so as the 60 series won't last long. Lowest rated suitable would be 63 series- I've picked up SSS dog leg boxes for between $50 and $150 each. Good for l16. Dr 30 skyline stumpy more like $300 and good all the way to ca18 power levels.

8 years ago we had an article called "How to fit L16, L18 and L20b engines" but that seems to have dissapeared...
L20b into a Datsun 1200
but there's still some useful info in that thread and the others linked from there.

here's a x-member pic from the conversion I did back in the mid 90s using Stanza saddles on the 1200 x-member, which seems to be the popular way to go these days... I also cut and shut the centre of the x-member and moved it back about 1/2-3/4" to get the motor as low and far back as possible. that's not really neccesary though.






I'd use the BW68 from Aus 120Y sedans instead of the H165. Cheaper, easier to find and stronger.

The Stanza 63a 5spd is the same length as the R30 Stumpy box but smaller in width/diameter and a better fit in the manual tunnel. They're cheap too. Shouldn't be any problem getting 20mm clearance with that box.

No need to cut and shut, engineers need to x ray it technically.

Stanza mounts are neatest, other one I had was just 4mm plate welded and gusseted onto x member and 180b mounts welded to them. Same result gets l series in your bay. Just sits higher.

That article was great. Shane with wiki anyone can add and delete as thy see fit

Bw68 not as easy to find now days

Ok well here is a couple pictures of the Car as is ATM, i have decided to just go all out and get everything done. I have tore out all the interior over the weekend and found a small amount of rust on the passenger side floor pan. The rest of the body is clean with only a small amount of surface rust under the tray and floor plan. And a tiny 10cent peice size bit of rust on the lower of the tail gate. I have removed the front panels and the panels in the tray to inspect it further to find no rust at all.

Im looking at getting a full body sprey done (CANDY APPLE RED) here in canberra.

I have looked around at a couple panel beaters to get a few quotes, but i was just wondering if anyone new a great place for a full resprey in canberra or a great panel beater

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Do the conversion first then the respray. My tip any way

i thought of that as well but if everything is already out for the engine to go in, it makes sense to get it painted at the same time. But i will do all the modification to the cross member and do a quick engine drop in to see if the box and engine fit correctly then take it back out for the Paint.