welcome, maybe the coil is overheating as you are using a 12v coil with the dropping resistor still installed?

maybe if you have not removed the resistor you should do that, or return to an original coil

if the problem gets worse after 15-20mins then i would definitely think it is to do with the coil overheating

Good point. Using a 12volt coil with points is also very hard on the points.

Maybe test the voltage to the coil +. If its 7-8volts go back to the original type coil. Or remove the resistor and be prepard to replace the points regularly.

how much fuel pressure you running? does the standard carb have an accelerator pump? could be something to do with that?? just and idea had that problem with my rotor

Me and a friend recently bought a 120Y 2dr wagon. Been sitting for years, fuel turned nasty in the tank, lots of sludge and rust. Previous owners tried starting it, carby filled with rust and gunk and wouldnt start without using ether and wouldn't run. I pulled top of the bowl off and blew out the jets and needle and seat with compressed air. It started and ran for a bit but not for long. We put one of my weber carbies on it, started first go and purred like a kitten.

Try pulling the carby right down (remove every component possible) and clean/replace anything which looks not right, and put it back together. There will most likely be a piece/s of rust jammed in somewhere which the compressed air cant remove.

Also get an oxy-acetylene tip cleaner set and while everything is apart, give all the galleries in the main body a good poking to remove any build-ups

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@1200rallycar, thanks :) brother are all the coils 12v, no?, the one originally installed was 12v oil based bottle type coil, have replaced two coils before (12v) and this is the third coil... but a dry one... no resistor installed took that off when i changed the coil, weird thing is it heats up without cranking, when i switch on the ignition its on fire??... sikyne, Bro will do that... will check the voltage to the coils and update...

Just took out the plugs... they look normal Tan/brownish color, but the Gap is way off... Let me see if i can post a pic of them... could it be the gap?

@lethal_john, Not sure about the PSI, but its good enough to fill a 1 litre bottle in 50sec 1 min... and yes the accelerator pump is working and connected, racer135, I did Take the whole Carburetor apart twice and cleaned everything i could...

It will go just fine, ample power.. after 2 or 3 so sprints it bogs down and dies, starts right after but then when i give it gas it dies again...

First, welcome, you will find that this site has members from all over the world.
I have some questions, Does the fuel filter look clean or is there dirt inside? If I understand your post, you are still running a points type distributor, is this correct? Are you still running the coil resistor, or have you removed it? (the white ceramic block) When you reassembled the carb, did you put the jets back into the same place they came out of? I ask this one because they will fit into the same holes, but the holes in the middle are different sizes, easy mistake to make. What do you have the timing set at? should be set at 20 deg. The points should be set at 49 to 55 deg. dwell, or 0.028 to 0.031 in. gap. (about 0.75 mm) The spark plugs should be set at 0.032 to 0.035 in. (0.75 to 0.78 mm)
For what it's worth it sounds like you are running an electronic ignition coil with points, doesn't work too well because the coil overheats and goes flakey. If this is the case, go back to the original style coil with the ballist resistor, and it should help your problem go away. Points systems are designed to run on 9 volts, which is why they have the resistor. Hope that this helps.

@rgrinder,Thank You, brother, Please ask bro, I really am at a dead end here, Yes fuel filter is clean, and is placed right before the fuel pump, The Distributor is a points type standard on the A12 the vacuum advance was broken since i bought the car about over a year now, now i have connected it, the vacuum is running fine, no leaks, I removed the Coil Resistor when replacing the coil this problem of engine bogging down was before on the earlier coil too..... The jets in the Carb are correct, rechecked them, the primary and secondary are in there place, the timing is 2 or 4 degrees retard, because when i advance it the engine jams, will check the points gap.. and spark plugs again, should i redo the timing after adjusting the gaps?... the old coil also was overheating and had a resistor with it??..