I have it all running from the starter motor the negative is earthed in the Tray and the circuit breaker mounted under the tray and isolation switch comes up through the handbrake hole and has the switch on the seat rail

Cheers, what amp breaker u have?

ok where to mount battery cut out switch so would pass event scrutineeing once battery is in boot?

dont really want to drill holes in the rear 1/4s for it, so would mounting it where the original battery tray cause many dramas, or just in the interior for me to use be ok?

got one that handles 500amp instintainious and most handle about between 150-200 amps continiously so more than adequate for a car.

also would need to mount it to make sure no pos connectioions to body of the car.

battery - cable - isolator - cable - starter post - accessories running off starter post.

CB is just another point of failure, just make sure that the cable is well installed/protected where it passes any sharp edges.

Also, are you wiring the alternator thru the isolator (you can get special isolators that allow this)? If you don't you will find the car will continue running when you open the isolator (i.e. disconnect the battery) and possibly damage the alternator.. When the isolator is opened, the car should stop immediately to pass scrutineering.

Oh yeah, in my old rally car we mounted the isolator on the tunnel and then ran a choke type cable to the front guard so it could also be operated from outside

thanks dean. guess i could remove the isolator and use a cb.... or remove both.

cable is well sheathed as is, thick rubber and a inner silicon type sheath then cable. going to strugle to cut sheaths to get to wire lol.

guess no isolator from factory so could skip it for amatuer hour racing like mine.

going to leave battery up front til i work this out properly.

thought about making a panel under rear parcel shelf and next to rear passenger 1/4 panel inner panel.

if i did that should be strong and also allow me a place to install switch internally to turn off. the cable trick could then work through the boot seal ;)

lol, mik... you problem is you have asked too many people and all have different ideas, now your head is spinning and you dont know what the fudge to do

go back to basics.... what racing do you want to do with your car and what are the requirements for that

rally cars dont need external cut off till like ARC/WRC level and i suspect no sprint type circuit cars need it either

just put the cut off where you can reach it and dont bother with a circuit breaker

there's no rubber or silicone on that cable, both coverings are plastic (two types)

in fact you don't need a cut off either but its good for a car that sits for long periods without use (so you know nothing is draining your battery)

yeah i been reading too much too.

saw this as it meets cams requirements sort of (technically not as the wire is still ive but it stops the car if you flick the switch when running.


yeah im amatuer hour so i just wonder where to mount the switch so the poles on the rear wont touch any metal etc. (go to ground)

dont have a console like you in car rc, so its a matter of where to mount then and how? boxed so posts cant touch anything????

Best bet would be to make a bracket! bend up an peice of alloy to fit the switch into so its up off the area you want to mount it on. that way contacts cant touch metal and short out.