your a walking contradiction b120dat, not very old skool is it.


so 1200RC once this works all you have to do is get a manifold hade up and everything else and you can bolt up your TT to the injection.


you should apply to your uni for a study grant, and get them to pay for manifolds and engine management.

Yeah injections on the way, i was just so sick of this thing sitting in the shed i had to put it together somehow (i pretty much had all the bits for this on the floor of my shed so why not..), if ya wanna see the injection on sooner offers of charity are more than welcome

just kidding, i just need to get a bit more money behind me and i will be replacing the carb with injec, it wont be too hard-a-swap from here to get the injection on

team dat

i dont even need to make a manifold, all i need is the computer to run the injection, and then to get it all tuned up

i also what to add the low comp head when i do the injection, which is worth a couple a hundred aswell

problem is im a bum, i have no job at the moment, might have to start delivering pizza me thinks

Well with TT you won't be late for any deliveries!

yes, well when it comes to OLDskool with turbo's, injection wins everytime but then webers can be converted to Injection too ehehehe

is that radiator hose??? being used on the turbo plumbing?? if so, has anyone else used it and how long does it last???

yeah from the old setup it seemed to be getting a little soft but hard to tell, i used new thicker hoses this time, but i think if i was to use the proper stuff id need to make up all new piping to minimise the amount needed and so that i only needed straight pieces

if ya think about it the water gets to 100 degrees in the cooling system (i read turbos get the air to around 65degrees) and to test for leaks in cooling systems they pump 20psi pressure into the system, so it should be able to take it, i think the proper stuff is just wank really

65 degrees???

In one of my old cars I had probes in ht eair, and it read up to 120 degrees before the I/C

yeah ok cool, still at 120degrees it would be within the design range of the radiator hose as with coolant the boiling point of water is close to that anyway

did you measure temp after the IC, just curious at how effective the IC was???

My I/C was too small in that particular car.....and after flogging it for a while the temp would get up to 100 degrees.....water spray would drop it back down to around 60 - 70 and make a big difference in power.

I reckon in my 13B 1600 temps after the I/C were not much higher than ambient. but I never measured