I know this has been asked a 100 times before but I've searched and cannot find a definitive answer on the entire conversion so i need some confirmation.

- 180B / 610 Engine mounts and cross member with radius rods and lower control arms
- Radius rods machined down with a notch on the mounting holes
- 160j / Stanza SSS Dogleg box or r30 Stumpy 5 speed
- 120y tail shaft from automatic borg-warner

I heard there will be issues with camber, bump steer, can anyone elaborate on this and what i can do to fix this problem

I also heard of people breaking wishbones under acceleration and differentials giving out

How does the speedometer mate up to the box? will the gearing be different and cause a changer in the speedo reading

Also would like to know if i missed out on anything that would be great too

the L20B is front sumped so doesn't suit the 180B x-member. You can use the L18 oil pickup and sump and drill the block for the new dipstick location to suit the x-member, or you can reverse the x-member like the 1600-180B people use dto do. But its probably easier to just make new engine mounts on the 120Y x-member IMO. You avoid any potential geometry issues that way as well.

120Y doesn't have wishbones. Not sure what you're getting at there.
the Borg Warner diff in some 120Ys will handle the power.
the auto BW tailshaft will only fit the BW diff, not the Hitachis.

yes the short Stanza and MR30 5spds are the easiest to use.

Speedo cable isn't a problem. Can't remeber if i used the 120Y cable or a Stanza cable, but whatever it was just bolted right on.

you'll need to do a hydraulic clutch conversion as well. not too hard on a 120Y as the mounting studs are already present inthe firewall, but you need to dril the firewall and clutch pedal holes normally. Depending on year model, you might have to move some brake lines out of the way as well.

very well, whats involved with drilling the block is it straight forward

No need to drill the block. It bolts right in.