Car looks sweet man. I had a CA20 R31 man piece of puss admittedly a heavy car to heavy for a 4 cylinder in my opinion. Now i have also seen 3 cases where Ca20's have put a piston through the block 1 in an R31 like mine and the other 2 in series 3 bluebird's and the cause was someone trying to put the foot down for simple reasons such as overtaking,going up a hill. Mechanics and other car enthusiasts tell me they have piss weak conrods and i take there word especially when you see the damage. All said may be a different story in a 1200 but i wouldnt bother.

Z20S is the same as Z18 but with a bit more CCs. It is a L-series block with crossflow head right from the factory.

CA20S is a very good engine for its purpose: Low-RPM grunter. Don't rev it over 5000 RPM and it will last a good long while while returning extraordinary fuel economy.

I know of plenty of CA20s and e engines still going strong and taken to their redline daily without issues. The secret is making sure its always running well with good servicing and thats it most in wreckers in all Nissans have over 300,000kms, the ones that are revved beyond their redline or abused do throw rods which are known to be high carbon powder cast grey iron units, yet there is an S12 member I chat with, that had an S12 with hybrid ca20det using stock but shot peened rods 20psi and has been reliable for several years of racing set some good times which has not been able to better with his new race setup sr20det s12, he kept the ca20det at 6200rpm redline but later built another that revved higher using common mitsubishi 4g63 rods. The rods just need a smidgen taken off the sides of the big ends then are perfect fit. ca20s engines are lighter than L18 engines due to having no bottom skirt.

A good lightweight combo would be an L16 (lightest block) done by Bas from Masport using L18 crank (bolt on) and 90mm C sleeves (he uses his own special casted head plate made from L series heads to bore and hone under the correct head bolt compression required so bores stay true and rings have excellent sealing) machined from crank centre lines and then fitting a ka24de head using toyota 22r bottom chain sprocket to suit shortened ka24de chain and a slight mod to the timing case as shown on Ozdat.com. This will give you a 1985cc L series with 155hp stock head and cams but with higher compression using milled 90mm ka24de +1mm oversize replacement pistons that with good exhaust and inlet (eg. r1 carbs or 48mm webers) should crack 160-180hp.
The L16 block weighs 37kg bare with mains while L18 weighs 10kgs more due to siamesed bores and thicker casting around the bores. The ca18de block weights 37kg and the ca20s block weighs 35kg or as heavy as an a14 block. The ka24de heads are everywhere atm cheap as chips.

If you are thinking NA another possibility is the same L16 sleeved bottom end with Ka24e sohc 12 valve head. Timing gear is straight forward and just needs one oil drain at back of head tapped or welded and z20 head bolts. Pistons choice is important as ka24e head has large chamber so will benefit with flat top piston or slightly domed from 2 valve hemi of some sort with machine valve recesses to suit. valve springs, solid lifters, billet and ground cams of all sorts are available as it was the only Ka allowed in SCCA racing in the USA and 2.4 litre race setups made somewhere from 340-360hp at 7600rpm. The L18 crank could be taken to 8000rpm with more safety.

i would choose for the ka24de head as its already an awesome bit of gear with cam over bucket and already 155hp from factory with average cast headers etc.

sohc 16v L series and Z
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showt ... 11909-Single-cam-builders

how come we cant see the pics here?

Which pics, they all work fine for me.

Well the car is now registered, passed roadworthy first go with no problems ;), I am using it for a few test drives tonight before its back to daily duties soon :D. Now I can focus on fitting the L20B to the crap 1200 for a good mockup.

Took this for a spin over the mountains today, handles like a go kart :D, not much to go in the way of work to smooth it out. It lacks a little power but the L20B should sort that out, it does pull quite well up to 140km/h tho, but not at a fast rate.

Few things I have fixed so far -
* The brakes locked on the other day on a test drive and it turned out to be the master cylinder was too full and had pressurized.
* The alternator belt loosened a few times, I think it was just stretching but I clamped a few bolts in the banana bracket to keep it from moving inwards.

Few things I need to fix
* The fuel gauge randomly reports empty, when it does work it requires flicks to move it around, I am going to have a play with lubing it and check the wiring/sender.
* Pollution hose is cracked causing a vacuum leak into the 1 way valve on the inlet manifold, going to plumb this to a oil catch can instead of the inlet, not really fussed about having it the right way.
* Need a better rubber boot for around the gear stick to stop noise inside the car.
* Need a cir-clip for the shifter lever, and to put the proper pin back in, and also a better gear-knob with correct markings.

Other then that I will whack the tacho I bought for it in next weekend and that will be all until the L20B is ready to go in.

So after replacing the master cylinder I can still feel the caliper putting pressure on the disc, Hoping to get some new calipers to fix the problem this week.

Took it for a few photo's at Petrie dam today :).






























Only other thing I need to do now is get the rear guards rolled, but that can wait until after I fix the brakes...

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the Work Equips sting you $$ wise. Were they brand newies?

$1740 delivered, and yes brand new.