Got some car time today. Need some 58mm id pvc pipe to test diy runners of 100mm to see if pod filters will work on them well. Mine was too big 60mm. Air pods made fuel come out air vents again. They block air flow to the jets in the intakes.
With mesh runs like it did, idles at 1200rpm nicely . Lean if idle below 1200rpm idle.
Wide band says rich everywhere else. Stumbles and no power. Main Jets must be too big at 1.7mm. Need a day with simon on dyno!!!

now has anyone had any success with bike cv carbs on cars?

Ive got new 1.3mm main jets to play with and if needed prepared to drill til right afrs on dyno.
Can the pilots be drilled for more low down flow like mains?
Im so close but no time to get to simons. Looking for some advice from those that have played with bike carbs.

s speaking with a guy thats into bikes. He says try leaning out midrange by dropping needles as I've spaced up to richen. Main jet might be big but better bit rich at wot. Worth a shot too I figure.
He raced karts with his son a lot. He thinks same bout filters but in a car situation less turbulence under bonnet than on a bike too. 


Update: beat the rain and put the needles back to stock bike position middle slot.

Idle still lean. Sometimes idles low and 19 but if I get consistent idle at 1000 rpm 15.3. Wide open in the 12.3 ish is now which is better. Think 1.7mm main jets still too rich. 1.4 or 1.5 might be ideal as still looses power up top and afrs go rich. 13 and 14 would be better at wot.

even if the bpsx ebay wide band is not accurate, its showing the swing from lean to rich was step in right direction to help get this far In Home tuning. Thanks for the interest and help guys.

Is Simon going to tune it?

Eventually yes. who else would I trust

hey mate

i don't know too much on bike carbs but hopefully this link can help out a bit.Seems the writer had same issues as you.

http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/carb-tuning.htm

cheers

Thanks. I've read that now and pretty much found similar conclusions lol.
Just pulled down carb bowls and cleaned again. It's amazing what you thought was clean before and how it's clean now.
I cleaned all jets again and found 2 of the pilots were not as clean as the others. I used guitar string last time but used micro drill bits this time.
The .40mm pilot jets should easily take a 0.35mm drill bit. only two of the 4 did, and the 2 dirty ones had some crazy on the drill bit.
reset floats a little lower too and will try over weekend. Too late to vroom vroom at 11pm.

let us know how u go mate

Got a nice smooth idle at 900 rpm with 13 afr. Then It leaked after 2 mind same vent hole. Raised idle to 1100rpm and leaned off to 16 afr.... no leaks after 5 min with nice transition onto needles.

I'd love to know why fuel comes out that air jet though.
Stock bike has idle between 950 and 1100rpm. I figure 900 may be too low and flooding main jet .

Make sure your fuel filtration is spot on and I think you said you had the tank cleaned?
Also higher fuel quality needs to be better than regular for bike carbs as deposits is more common.

You will be a bike tuner soon enough the way things are going! :)

Never did never. Pulled carbs out again and cleaned the one that leaked. throughly! Found a tiny bit of old o ring In a Idle jet passage. I back flushed it and found it. Also the tang on the end of the float needles are spring loaded. This was stuck open. Soaked and cleaned and llama like new. Reset float and And all great! Smooth 1050 rpm idle still bit higher but car if anything is still rich at wot. Need to Install smaller mains.
But it has more go than it did when I thought they were ok before.
Idles nice and smooth and go full throttle it's great to 5500rpm. (Cam profile only between 2000 and 5500).
Going to enjoy driving it a bit til dyno.
Swap 1.7 mains for 1.3 and retune. I still think 1.4 or 1.5 may be the go.