Hi Guys,
Need some help with panel replacement.
1- Are they just lap welded as shown in the pics of my ute? You dont have to make flanges and make it look flush to the body?
2- I have got a Cigweld 135 Mig with 0.8 wire. Will this be enough for spot welding? Please note that I have never done spot welding in my life so would really appreciate if could be given some advice.
3- Any advice with cutting out panels? What is the best spot weld drill bit to use and do you recommend a grinder to cut panels or a nibbler.
4- I am planning to replace the whole panel but a bit concerned if the reproduction panels will fit in properly. Heard musclecarpartsaus make really good reproduction.
5- Do I have to strip the new panels to bare metal and then apply primer or primer can be applied to the new panels directly .
Any comments/suggestion would be really appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Ron.

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Hi Ron

Mate. You have just inspired me to sign upto this forum.
I have viewed it over the last few months and has some great info.
Also seems, some really great guys/gals that have heaps of knowledge about everything 1200

I might start my own build thread. Looking at what others have done or gone through is great.

So, your question.
I was also looking for info on the panels and replacing them a little while back.
I have just replaced pretty much all the panels you can buy.

The panels I got from muscle car parts in Sydney.

They are NOT a bolt on fit, they are close however.

The rear quarters Fit my ute fairly close.
The reproduction panels are very thin metal, good to work with etc..
Easy to dent though!!!

I'll just see if this posts, it's my first post ever on a forum.
Then I'll try tell you how I went about things.

Cheers

Ok, we are away Ron

So, my advice with the reproduction panels.
I'll just say, I'm fairly handy with metal, However I'm not a professional panel beater or sheet metal worker.


Before removing the rear quarters
I started with fitting up the new front doors and new hinges.
Line them up to suit existing rear quarter panel gaps. I even fitted the locks to see how the looked closed.

Then, try fitting the new front guards. Matching them to the front of door and plenum/ water box
(Bolt holes need some enlargement with a small round file here)

I then fitted up my new bonnet to see how I was looking.
Looking not too bad, I then cut/grind/drill off spot welds and removed the front lower apron.

I will try add a photo at this point.

I can't seem to add a photo just yet, sorry

Once I cleaned up the front radiator support panel.
Bolt the new lower apron into position, with the lower bolts in the front guards.

This allowed me to check if everything was siting where it needed to be.

Final, push, shove, prod here and there.
(I spent a lot of time with panels on and off at this point)

Bolt up the doors, guards etc in position and tighten bolts

I then welded the front apron into position.

Once the front was in place, I then looked at working on the back end of the car.

Removing the rear quarters, let me just say.
I hope you like getting dirty and drilling/grinding.
I didn't count them all, but I'm sure someone on here knows exactly how many spot welds you will be un stitching.

Really take your time with this, it's important not to remove any more metal than needed.
I used a combination of drill bits, 4-5"grinder and an air belt sander to do this.

The section around the B pillar where the side vents go, I did little by little with a grinder.
You don't want to go at it hard.

My advice on the technique here.
Search YouTube for videos on removing spot welds.

Also, how spot welds are factory done, is very different than how you will do spot welds with your mig, 135amp mig will be plenty.

You should practice this with some scrap metal, even the old panels to get an idea on what settings your welder needs, AMPS/Wire speed etc..

When I do them, I mark out where I want them with a colour paint marker.

Lightly drill, the spots with about a 8mm drill bit, just until the point goes through the first panel, but not the whole 8mm bit going though.

This I think does two things for me.
I can hold the mig torch, square to my drill mark spot.
Then when I start the weld, the mig wire strikes the arc on the second panel.
They then fused together, as you fill up the small drill marking you made.
With the molten pool of metal.

Patience, practice and a lot of vies grip style clamps is all you need.

Hope that answers some things for you.

Cheers

Thanks so much DatPilot,
Really appreciate your advice/comments. I was able to spot some spot welds on the rear quater panels, might get more visible once i start scraping the paint. I also bought a spot weld remover drill bit (hopefully will work :)) will keep you guys posted.
So, do you have to cut open the panel to slide a screw driver/air chisel inbetween the spot weld? And for spot welding, can i use gassless?
Kind Regards,
Ron.

No problem at all.

So, the way the panels are attached.
Is the outer panel, the one you are going to be replacing.
They are sandwiched together, inner and outer, then the spot welds have fused the two panels.

To remove them, you drill/grind the top/outer panel, JUST ENOUGH.
So that the outer panel pops away from the inner panel.

Sometimes you will get a little puff of brown dust, when you have gone far enough.
This is rust between the two panels.

As long as you are just grinding the top/outer panel.
You are pretty safe, it will look rough, However there isn't really a neat way other than slow and steady with the tools.

These spot welds run all the way along the sill,wheel arch, lower rear quarter.
Up the the panel, joining the tail light section, then along the top flange below the tie down rail.
Then past the side vent, inside the door below the B pillar all the way down inside the door frame and back to the sill panel.

They are spaced anywhere from 20mm - 50mm apart
You should be able to see a few of them, the rest are under the paint.

At a guess, there would be maybe 80 or more spots holding the rear quarters on.
Driver side a few extra for the fuel filler area

Once you grind or drill a couple, the panel will pop away.
Watch a few video on YouTube.. There are loads of them.
You need to see, just how removing that little spot is all that is needed.
No heavy handed force, trust me.
It's just TIME CONSUMING!!!!

I wouldn't suggest a chisel or bashing screwdrivers etc..
You will create more work by, ripping the metal on the inside panel.
Which you will then have to try repair and get straight.

Otherwise the new panel, won't fit up nice at all.

Don't want to scare you off it mate.
Its a process, but well worth doing. To know you have near zero body filler and definitely NO rust in your 1200.

Once I figure how to upload pictures I will

So his photo shows the normal, expected panel joining?

@DatPilot
Hi Buddy,
Probably the easiest way to upload pics is using the "snipping tool" in windows 7. Just open the normal pic and use the snipping tool to select the portion you want and save it as jpg. You will then be able to upload that saved pic. Or you can use paint if that is easier for you.
I will try the grinding method you suggested this weekend and will update you with the progress
Kind regards,
Ron.

For a step-by-step about posting photos, see http://datsun1200.com/modules/xoopsfaq/index.php?cat_id=7#q6

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... ASC&type=&mode=0&start=10

Have a look at this might give you some ideas.i cut the bulk away with a grinder then ground away each spot weld an then chiselled off to get a clean break as the top skin becomes much thinner after grinding. gently gently is the key....