Instead of moving the alternator, look at whether the pulley is all the way back. Maybe it needs a shallower spacer.

To move the alternator
* Use a washer behind the upper (adjusting) bracket
* Slot the bolt holes in the lower bracket, but you might not be able to if it is cast iron. In that case hacksaw or grind a bit off the front off the bracket (where the alternator attaches) and use a washer to take up the slack on the back.

Ok i think i follow that..
will have a look tomorrow
im sure the alternator bottom bracket was like a U and it dropped in with bolt each end holding it in place and be cast iron

You can also slice the original cast alternator bracket a little at a time and use exhaust manifold washers or similar wide spacers

Is there no easier way of getting this set up to work?
If could would like to not modify factory mounts for if took them off would be easy to put back to normal

In the grand scheme of things, shaving the mount down a moving the alt. back is nothing.
Worst case scenario, when you take the gilmer off, just buy another alt. mount for like what, $10, that's what I paid for my last one.

send picture from the alternator side to see why its not lining up

This is what its like when been running
(Only in garage haven driven it yet)

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Can the crank pulley go on both ways ?

Alignment looks fine except for crank pulley.

That's what I was thinking . Maybe you can flip the crank pulley ?