Steve you pretty much nailed it on your description. The thing to keep in mind about my driving is although I haven't raced one in 25 years I still have habits developed racing 125cc GP bikes around Willow Springs. Also I am on Hoosier bais plys which do move around more than radials, of course I really didn't drive it differently with the radials to be honest.

In general I steer the car with the pedals; I trail the brakes to make the car rotate then balance it on the throttle. What you saw on the last turn leading on to the straight was I trail braking into the first apex then once the car is on the right trajectory I wind the throttle to the floor, as the speed builds the front end wants to push but the back end is still sliding so at the same time I'm unwinding the steering wheel just ahead of the front tires to make sure understeer doesn't set in.

It's classic 4 wheel drift but with the extra wrinkle of using timing to scrub as little speed as possible. The corner is done in 3 parts; the entrance is just enough oversteer to get the nose pointed on the correct trajectory and trim speed, the middle part of the corner is really three part transitional phase 4 wheel drift with more rear drift pre apex, equal front rear through the apex, then slightly more drift at the front post apex which I dial out with the steering wheel and then the last third of the corner is transitioning from drift to forward drive. It's all down to timing and faith that you've gotten it right from the outside it looks really aggressive, which it is but it also requires subtle inputs to be made 250ft before you expect them to happen. I come out onto the front stretch at 7500 rpms in 3rd gear (85 mph) which is hoofing it. If you look at in car video from some of the winged open wheel guys some of the them are barely doing that so I know the technique is working.

On the subject of left foot braking I am using the technique but not in the way most people think. This one is tough and the only other two people I have ever been able to confirm this works are a former Indy Car & 24hrs of Daytona winner and a well known racing engineer. The reason I carry so much entrance speed into one is this, on motorcycles a common technique is to preload the throttle to wind up the chassis as they say, while trailing the brakes into the corner (with my right foot) I preload the throttle. Similar to a heel and toe down shift only I leave my foot on the throttle, we're talking adding enough to just take up the slack in the ring and pinion and get the rear end to squat. You get the benefit of the trail braking holding the front down and the tiny bit of throttle to squat the back, you can get an extra 1-2 mph for the first third of the corner. There is also the added bonus of preventing rear wheel lock up and prevent rear wheel chatter. From time to time you'll see the inside front start to lock as I've over done it. If I had a dog box I would just left foot brake and go up and down through the the box without the clutch. I also know what I am doing is working because turn 1 mid corner I'm doing 72-73 mph, again watch video form Spring Mtn Motorsports and you'll see guys in new Vettes Porsches et al doing between 65-70 as well as winged open wheelers doing 70-75 mph.

Steve I'll be more than happy to give you tips, you drive the wagon well and are pretty smooth. The difference between the cars is based summed up by how a friend described my driving style years a go, he called it slippery smooth. It's like putting a boat on a trailer in a slight cross current, you just balance the sideways drift and convert it into forward motion at the right moment.. It will be good fun to have 2 1200s harassing the field.

Finally thanks for the nice word about my driving, I know I drive the 1200 damn well but it's nice to have people acknowledge how hard I'm working.

All I really need to clobber folks is another 20hp......that would be tasty.

Tom

Thank you for the write up its very exciting to read your posts.

for another 20hp what is required from your engine or is going
an extra 20hp going to ruin its flexibility and response? or even
possible or already at its limits with the chassis setup you have?

D, I believed the motor was probably making around 100-105 hp at the wheels but now it seems it's probably more like 110 given the top speed. I know the A12 made 80whp and it topped out some 8-12 mph slower on various parts of the track.

I could up the compression, go up a couple of MMs on the valve sizes and install a large volume cold air box. Additionally things like MSD ignition and electric fan would eek out a little more and probably get it most of the way there without loosing the drive ability.

At the moment I just plan to get it over to a dyno to optimize what's there. I may also pull out 35-40lbs of stuff and clean up the aerodynamics a bit (I can mount the mirrors on the roll cage and run a small air dam) along with a few small things. I can likely get the equivalent of 6-8hp.

The car is going really well but I'm is still loosing out on the straights especially on the start. I'm getting as much corner speed as possible so the acceleration is the only thing left. Hopefully the small gain will make the jump from top 5 to top 3. I'm 1 1/2 - 2 seconds off of third and 3 1/2 from first overall.

Tom

Tom