I have a stock B210 A14 motor.
What I'd like to do is replace the crank pulley.
1: increase the size of the largest pulley a little so that it drives the water pump faster because in the summer, 40C, my car runs hot. (Not a 1200, smaller radiator.) But that's just a kinda want.
2: add an edis trigger wheel. I already have this and I've modified a 210 pulley with my lathe so that the trigger wheel slips on. I can easily braze it on if I decide I'm committed.
3: a friend just gave me a small Eaton supercharger, so it'd be neat to have a 25mm wide drive belt, and for the supercharger in question, that would be about 7"/18cm in diameter.

If you were doing this, how would you arrange these three things on a pulley? Which one on the inside/outside? I can move the water pump and alternator pulleys in/out if I need. I kinda feel like EDIS closest to the engine, then the v-belt, then the supercharger drive.

Thoughts?

I'd probably fabricate this out of billet steel. I'm going to have to borrow a lathe, though, since mine only can swing about 15cm.

Neat project

I like the EDIS sensor close to the engine, but the trigger wheel could be after the stock pulley groove. Which trigger wheel you using? I used the 10mm thick wheel, but a sheet-metal trigger disk effectively take up no space

Personally, the blower drive looks neatest at the front? Are you goint to use a steel blower hub?

I would keep the stock V-belt groove in the stock location take make it easier to line up the water pump and alternator




Reminds me that the water pump will cavitate when driven faster. The later A14s came with 107mm water pump pulley, good for at least 6,000 rpm. The earlier ones came with 129mm pulley, presumably good for higher rpm

Also the cheaper water pumps with stamped steel impeller limit the speed

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  old pump vs new pump 5681b.jpg (49.45 KB)


  steel hub with aluminum cogged-belt pully pulley6.jpg (37.98 KB)


  blower pulley pulley7.jpg (94.48 KB)

After seeing these and reading a bit more, I'm pretty tempted to make a single groove pulley that I've notched one edge to a 36-1, with the blower pulley on the end. I dunno why it didn't occur to me that notching the edge of the pulley would work. I have one of the 1cm thick cast iron ones, but it would solve so many problems if I got to omit that.

Random related question: these are mostly called harmonic balancers on ebay. All the harmonic balancers I've played with on other cars have rubber mounts with weights inside the pulley so they damp vibrations. The one I pulled off my spare engine is just a chunk of steel. There's no harmonic anything, is there?

yes thats right. Harmonic balancer has a rubber layer between two parts of the pulleys to dampen vibrations. A-series doesn't need that cause it is well balanced to start with

Some say it helps with above 7,000 RPM. See a photo of a custom one made for the A-series: Harmonic Balancer

I'm sure you could figure out how to bolt a separate blower pulley to this

https://rossperformanceparts.com/produ ... tsun-a14-harmonic-damper/

Hey,
As it happens i have some custom two piece A series crank pulleys.
Steel hub, and aluminium pulley. The pulley above looks a lot like my old supercharger pulley.

That Ross balancer is beautiful.
I'm trying for a bit more power at low RPM for a street car. Otherwise, I might be going through the couch for coins to try to afford that.