Well,,I went out and did it.
Lost all oil pressure in my a-12 soooo
on Saturday I went out and bought
the CA18det now starting the conversion
and will be asking alot of questions..
wish me luck
Wubbits
p.s. Thanks Tim for the tour of your shop
last month.. Seeing the Chickenhawk in
person helped me decide to get started on
mine..did you like my idea about building a
UTE from the 1200 you cut apart??
See ya here

Good luck.

3 quick hints.

1. If you want to, machine the crank pulley for radiator space, only take one pulley off. Othwise youll cut into the 'rubber balancer part, and have 2 pieces

2. Leave as many things attached to the engine as possible, saves you remembering where they go.

3. take loads of digitial photos (borrow a camera if you don't have one)

Chris

I have an empty engine bay and have the same job ahead of me from now. I plan to have the old mounts cut out and the new ones in by next wednesday. If you want to avoid all the stuffing around getting the mounts right, then give Paul at inj_18l@hotmail.com, a mail. It is his green ute in fast 4's (I thinik) he does convert kits with engine, gearbox mounts, clutch adaptor if you dont want to go hydraulic, all powdercoated and schmick.

This is more for someone who has arlready done it, I have a high pressure hose that is 5/16 inch. It is steel belted rubber. would you trust running that down the underside of the car inside a guard, or would you suggest the extra effort of instaling hard lines?

good luck mate
mely

I'd suggest running the minimum lengths of hose in the system. I'd also recommend having the least number of hose-clip joints in the system too. Wrapping the hosing in some heavy duty tape or making aluminium guards will reduce the possibility of road debris from damaging the fuel lines.

If it's tough hose then I wouldn't worry about it. It might mean completely remaking the lines. Which you might want to do later to increase fuel flow. If it breaks, the car will stop. If the car stops, and the wiring is correct, the fuel pump will also stop.

The fuel pump is only on for the following states:
1. First 5 seconds of ignition for system prime.
2. While Start Signal is detected
3. While Ignition + Running engine is detected.

So after all that, I wouldn't worry about it.

Chris

Hey Wubbits, glad you stopped by the Dat-cave as tensandtwenties likes to call it. I'm always up for showing off my junk to fellow Datsun freaks. Anyone who is coming to the Fort Worth-Dallas area and wants to stop in is welcome.
I did give some thought to the Ute Idea but I'm afraid that car is too far gone. Besides, I have too many other ideas floating around.
Good luck on the CA engine. Should be pretty fast.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Did you have any trouble getting that bumper back to California on the train?

Other than laughs I had no trouble
with the bumper. they stowed it below with our stroller and car seat..
got the ca18det up on the engine
stand and ready to tear apart so I
can check it out..
any ideas on a US car to get a trans
from, I was thinking about the 84-85
200sx cause it came with a ca20e and rwd
but I would prefer a trans out of A TURBO
280ZX as it came with a borg warner t5
and I have been very satisfied with the
one in my Mustang GT ..
Wubbits

Mely, about this Paul guy you mentioned, whats the deal with the conversion kits? I have seen heaps advertised for Datto 1600 (P510) conversions but not one sigle one for 1200's. Whats the go?
The ones I have seen advertised inlcude X member, g'box mount, tailshaft etc. Thats for about $800-$900 roughly, one website that has them is MadDat.com.au but not for the 1200.
What do the kits Paul makes include and what sort of dollars are we talking??

This might be a bit of a stretch but does anyone make wiring looms for converting L16 carb 1600's to say CA18DET? If they do does anyone do one for 1200's? Its a bit of a custom job I suppose.

Cheers, Simon

Glad to hear you got the bumper home ok. I wish I could be more help on the CA tranny stuff but I know less about those engines than I do about computers. Ask tensandtwenties about my computer skills. If my laptop didn't have a one-touch button to turn the thing on and come straight here, I'd probably never find the club again.

<small>[ Edited by dimlight65 on 2002/6/6 7:55:29 ]</small>

Simon.
Paul is a great bloke and he does it for half the price you would get quoted nywhere else. He is after about $450 +p&h for the engine and gearbox mounts and clutch conversion I think. I bought a few more bits off him as well so I cant remember exactly.
Good luck

Last day of uni 2day. Gonna get all greasy tomorrow tearing out the old hard lines and putting in the new ones. I have found an aluminium U section that will bolt up to the underside of the body to run fuel lines down. Will the old fuel line move enough fuel to be used as a return line?
I am gonna relocate the battery to the tray as well so I need nother guard for those as well. And yes before nyone yells at me I will use a separate guard for fuel and spark.

Another thing I was thinking of is getting a fibreglass hard top for the tray. I would have to get it custom I guess. Could I just lie a wood platform flush with the top of the tray and a plasic sheet over that and the sides of the ute and start rolling out the sheets of glass and resin? Do I need a gell coat to start or what? Any fibreglassers or board shapers on this site?

thanks
Have a good day fellas
mely

Mely I am assuming it is illegal to run the fuel lines inside the car eh. Thats a shame cause it would make it a lot easier, I know you can run them inside the cockpit of a racecar tho.
I personally hate the solid Datto fuel lines and would probably make the return line from the same sort of rubber you use for the line to the motor, just for the sake of ease.