If your running twin webbers with no place for a vaccum advance you would just get it set up to run on the counterweights only or weld the weights and set the whole thing static. ie idle 30deg advance-full throttle 30deg advance.

electronic 'anythings' in an engine bay are all another science for me ..... would an auto elec do all the work for the conversion or is there someone else for the internal work on the dizzy ????
sorry for asking so many q's but am interested in this conversion..... ferals would be fantastic but don't have the cash at the moment

Id say the majority auto elecys could. I do know there are people out there that do it. Yes ferals would be good but I cant justify the cost. I mean elec dizzys arent the end all of end all. I really want one but I still want some weight in my back pocket.

B120 dat is right the bosch dizzy off a series 2 bluebird is the way to go. They deliver great spark the modules are very cheap & any dizzy bloke will bable to fix it for you & quickly. If you get a normal a serie dizzy you still have to recurve it to your cam when they do that they will tell you that it needs rebushing so there is a rebuild so go the bosch you will find its not much it will cost about the same money.
Do the maths.

I bought mine from Jeff Taylor from JTS 02 9623-8826 and I believe its probably the single best item I could have bought for my A series for performance and reliability.
It will transform your engine incredibly. What else could you bolt onto you engine for around $300 which would make such a difference?

I know you are tight for cash, and believe me so am I (I'm single income earner with Sydney mortgage and 4 depandant kids) ..I scope everything for what has highest bang for my buck....but I just couldnt find anything for less and I cant go past Jeffs unit for bang for buck...

question to the n12 dizzy folk, does yours need regraphing?
The spacer plate i made for mine was 3 dizzy base plates soldered together.... about 10mm. is this the plate your talking about. any one got photos of it fitted. havent fitted mine yet as no timing light

Wouldn't the ignitor or N12 dizzy be the best bang for buck?

Surely the Ignitor can run high energy coils like everything else, and it's only two wires to fit.

Isn't it the simplest option?

Im looking for bang for buck and whats easiest. Ive heard from someone that uses a n12 pulsar dizzy that the graphing was so close it didn't matter. The main reason I personally would like to rid points is the setting which really isnt that bad and to stop points bounce which isnt a problem at the moment. Im not interested in the energy of spark it throws. It going to throw a better spark than points anyway.

the plates you've soldered together is the one base plate that keeps getting refered to, ithink??.

i'm pretty much looking for the same result as freak .... apart from i need to get my vac advance gone, the dizzy regraphed before i put on new carbs ... so i figured instead of playing with the points dizzy i'd go for eletronic and get the higher powered spark to
tomorrow i think i'm going to talk to the auto elec and the guys that are going to be tuning my datto, find out their opinions.
i'll post any new info i get for you all to see

hmm wierd i was just about to put up a post about this but ill say it here!

i picked up my regraphed and modified N12 dissy from Jeff Taylor today. It was sent away, regraphed and tightened up, cleaned etc to a brand new looking state. I opened my bonnet and we threw it in. Previously I had been using a N12 dissy without re-graphing and it worked fine, for months! The advance however was not so good.

The mounting plate I had was pretty average. Best to use the pictures found on this site, take an old a12 dissy mounting plate, weld on the extra arm and drill it out to allow the advance to be manually set. Make sure the bit you weld on is not sitting LOWER than the surface touching the motor, this will hold the whole dissy at a funny angle!

Also there was too much play in my dissys actual rod or shaft. Jeff fixed it so there is NO play in the shaft (wobble the bottom of your N12 dissy where the A series cog is. If it moves it is quite bad.) Mine previously had vertical play but no horizontal play, and did no known damage to my motor.

The timing is now perfected a bit more, in that the self-advancing occurs inside the dissy, and progresses properly, whereas before it wasnt doing this properly. I have more torque throughout the rev band now which is definitely an improvement, more than just the parts of torque I was getting before. My timing is just on 14-15 and goes out to around 30 at 5k rpm.

In my opinion bang for buck (and considering you DO want to get rid of points (otherwise id definitely say the jaycar HEI kit)) you should just get a hall effect sensor like the Fireball units, then you have no points to burn, same cheap old dissy which works fine! There are lots of kits available now. Also uses 12V system!
Next best would be the N12 with or without regraphing (can cost a bit new when regraphed).
Then the best is the datrats beast, bluebird electronic dissy..