I got two batteries that I know that are working I can try those
then let you guys know how it goes

If the engine cranks over ok - the battery is good, plain and simple.

not always phunkdoktaspok, in a non fuel injected motor, yes, but in a fuel injected motor it requirs more power to keep the ecu running, it may have the power to turn it over and fire up but not to keep it going. when the motor is running for this short period of time, the altinator is puting charge back into the battery, which would be enough to allow it to turn over again and fire up

your best bet wud be to check the battery as this is your source of power and any other problems would derive from here

well after charging the battery, tried it and same issue cranks, starts but wont stay running on.
Then I placed a different battery which I know is working fine and fully charged just incase...but still no luck.

So its not the battery issue something else, can it be my ECU going bad? or the AFM? i thought if the AFM is faulty it would still start but run rough.
I'm going to call the electrician today

datsunb120 sorry mate but *bump bum* You wrong! on everything.
A battery is rated in CCA ( cold cranking amps)
Why? because a startermotor is the biggest load placed upon it. Aint no ECU etc gonna draw even anywhere near what a starter will draw out of a battery, not even anywhere near half the amount of amps a starter would draw.
You notice the starter has a big fat battery cable connected to it and an entire cars power circuit only has a wire half the size of this, supplying power to the fuze panel. Why would that be? Answer is above.
You would have a beefy alternator if it could charge a battery while cranking to return the power used by the starter.

Now I am no genius, but a little piece of plastic in my wallet that says Auto Electrical Licence and has a few numbers after it, well this tells me that acording to the MVRIC I should know about batteries and an Automobiles electrical system. I hope I never lose my wallet because between you and me, after 8 or so years in the trade I still dont have a clue

UPDATE:

sparkie guy said not electrical problem anymore, told me to check ECU or coolant temp sensor

so tried a swapping ECU no luck on that
replaced my coolant temp sensor from the wreckers (i should replace it with new one right?) but this sensor looked clean and good so tried that and still same problem.

changed AFM and didnt help

We got it started by pressing the accelerator pedal all the way down for a lot of tries, we got it started after swearing for a few minutes.

then runs rough after few minutes was running perfect!

tried starting her up after few hrs and the car was running good.

Next morning it started runs rough blew black smoke then stalled. Tried re-starting....it starts but wont stay running on again!!!!

I'm thinking maybe a VACUUM issue, maybe one or two hoses are not connected where it should be connected.

Anyones got a bright idea? Im getting very desperate.

If its anything like the CA18e i had, in an EXA. The TPS switch was stuffed / not in the correct position, and the engine was continually being flooded when cold. As soon as the engine was warm, there was no problem at all. Is this like anything you are experiencing. On top of that the Crank angle sensor shat itself aswell soon after[different prob though]

benny

similar engine I guess....

the gazelle CA20E is similar to the pintara ones

just few differences but I will check that TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
thats the Black box on the throttle body right?
I'm wondering if I can interchange that with the pintara ones...

not sure about CAS cos the engine should run rough even warm right

yes phunkdoktaspok, i am no genius either, nor am i no electritian, but i do know my basic electics. however, i do agree with you that you still dont have a clue, power measured in amps??? i wasnt refering to the current drawn by the ecu nor did i mention anything about the starter motor, which you are correct that it does draw alot of amps from the battery when cranked, but it runs on a different circuit to the ignition circuit, which in this case has no relavency.

goin off my experience with a very similar problem to this one, where the cause of problem was a faulty battery. you stated before that 'if the motor is cranking over the battery is fine', well thats what i thort until i changed mine and the motor ran properly again.(no need for imature gameshow noises) well, if a battery is faulty, it may have dropped a cell and the power output(in volts) would be less than 12v(well thats what i would imagine) , the battery will not charge to its full capasity but when the motor is cranking over the altinator is puttin some charge back into the battery as it is spinning around. the ecu for instance is a little more complex than the altinator which has stuff like microprocessors and little gadgets in it and probably requires a certain voltage for it to work and if it has a too low of a voltage it would cut its off which would then stall the motor. well this was the problem with my car and i didnt need to be no electritian to fix it

im probable not completly corect but i must be close

Sorry if this is going off topic, but I cant add anymore to this thread without actually touching the car, but I will respond to datsunb120.
Basically mate, without trying to put you down, get an education of relevance to this topic, before you try and sound like you know something and attempt to correct someone elses post of which you belive is incorrect.
Power is rated in Amps.
8 AA 1.5volt bateries in series makes 12volts - but it still isnt enough to crank over an engine.
Are you starting to see the relevance of Amps to power output?
A human can hold onto a 1000volt power lead and still not get electricuted, but add some current (amps) to that 1000volts and you will start to smoke even without a cigarette.
Why is a cars alternator rated in Amps? Because that is how much current it can put out.
If power wasnt rated in Amps, How do you explain a battery eventually going flat?

Now you say a starter motor has no relevancy.
If you read my post you would understand it is highly relevant to why your posts are incorrect.
#1 while cranking, the alternator isnt spinning fast enough to put out any power.
#2 Not until the alternator begins to put out power, does the ignition run off it. ( during cranking everything is running off battery power - so yes they are the same circiut )
#3 Like I previously stated - Nothing on a car draws more current than a starter motor. So plain and simply if an engine can crank over off a battery - the battery has enough juice to operate the cars entire electrics.

As to the second half of your post.
#1 you must have a magical car. Either that, or your car had a bad connection in the power supply to the fuze panel and in changing the battery, this poor connection was rectified.
#2 If a battery has dropped a cell - plain and simply it wont have enough juice to crank an engine over.

If you cant comprehend that - I give up on you.
I have explained it twice now and wont bother attempting again.