The strange thing is I don't have an auto choke The blurry thing in the bottom right of the photo is the wire and adjustment for the manual choke.

So do I pull the wires on the front solenoid leaving all the hoses where they are?

I may even try soldering the wire back on to the part at the block, put everything back to where it was and see if it is something totally separate that is causing the problem.

What problem are you experiencing?

B210sleeper, Auto chokes don't use sensors that I've ever seen ... they are powered whenever the engine is running. If a switch was used to turn the choke "off", then it wouldn't ever heat up. If you have more info, I'm interested in which year/model it is to look at the wiring diagram.

The problem is that it is running like a pig. It is really gutless and then it has a surge after half throttle. Accelerate out of a corner and it dies momentarily, no smooth delivery of power.

On the way to the exhaust place it was running the best it has ever run (maybe it knew something was up) I had just given it a bit of a tune, new points etc. Then when I pick it up it is running really bad. The only difference is the extractors and the wire that is off the "switch" it the front of the block. I didn't think the extractors would have such a large effect on the car, I was expecting a change but a change for the better. Hence my quest for knowledge.

I have had extractors put on other cars (EFI admittingly) and they just ran better.

I had a simmilar issue before I check the timing and when I adjusted it the problem went away (pre extractors). I have since checked the timing and the dwell and they are spot on. This also made me ask about upping the timing a bit but I didn't think extractors would mean having to change the timing.

i realized i may be mistaken about the auto chokes, since that is done in the choke thingy on the carb.

one of them is a 35c switch and the other 17c, and they go to warm up relay 1 and 2 and on to some other stuff... I don't have the patients to figure out what they do after that. see pdf here 81 us spec sunny 310 4 mb

for those interested....

Thanks for the wiring diagram. It is for 1981 Datsun 210 (B310 North America). There is an auto choke relay. It is powered by the choke from the 'N' terminal of the alternator (engine running, alternator working), but no temp switches are involved. While looking this over, I also noticed the 1972 & 1973 LB110 uses a relay for the choke (I never realized that before). One of the temperature switches for the B310 goes to the electric fan, probably the one at the front of the head.



But Abyss' ute doesn't have an electric fan.

The mystery continues. Does anyone have a 1980-ish ute wiring diagram? I only have one for 1974.

Part of the problem is that I have a repair manual but it is only for the earlier models and I haven't seen one for a Ute yet alone an '84 Ute.

Do they have wiring diagrams in the glove box user manual? I know there was one in the back of the user manual for my 260Z when I had it and that was a '76. I'll have a look at the Ute one tonight.

Thanks for everyones help so far.

Any chance he's running a bit lean with those new headers/extractors and exhaust?

that 1 switch is only present in cars with A/C and the additional cooling fan, but the other 2 should be present in all the models.

As this sensor is basically a switch, if you connect the 2 wires together everything should act like it is warmed up. Try this, go for a drive. Is the problem fixed? If not, look elswhere.

To bypass, take the hose from the carby and connect it directly to the dizzy. The other stuff isn't of much use to you.

Ok, a bit of an update.

I have tried various forms of by-passing and nothing has made much of a difference.

So I went to a place where I thought I might get something aftermarket and had no luck! They suggested trying Nissan as they should have something like that for sure.

Now I spoke to Nissan a few days before and they said as far as any of their documentation goes, that part does not exist on the car and they couldn't help me So this time I went in with the car to see if the story would changed. Eventually they found it in one of their little books.

He typed the little number into their computer and he said that will be $186 but don't worry they aren't available anymore

So, this part is apparently a temp sensor for a vacuum advance solenoid and by the look of the markings on it, ot is triggered at one temp and off at another.

It is specific to Australian vehicles only and is also on post 1978 120Y's.

I have looked/rung quite a few wreckers in Brissy and have had no luck

It is at the auto elec now but he said he may not be able to fix it.

Does anyone have one of these lying around that they don't want?

Does anyone in Brissy no of a wrecker that has either 1200's or post 78 120y's?

Help!!!!