It must have been covered, but the search tool just aint working for me.

Had a look in the wreckers on the weekend- from a rough calculation: the longer lower control arm combined with the wider hub puts the face of the hub about 35mm further out on both sides..... does this sound right? it seems like a lot to try and make up in wheel offset and guard flaring

The other thing I havn't been able to work out is the master cylinder setup people are using-
non-boosted 1200?
boosted 12y?
boosted stanza?
somthing else altogether?

There are remote vacuum boosters mentioned, but that sounds like a lot of effort...... do you need a booster for this setup?

I'm thinking this might be a useful topic to get nailed down and into the tech section, since its such a popular upgrade

howdy

35mm is about right, i did mine and still run the same wheels and tyres i had on the drum brake struts. check the gap on your existing setup and you might find the guards will only need a lip roll and at the worst a slight pump out.

you can succesfully run these brakes with a tandem 1200 master cylinder. boosters and bigger masters are all personal choice.

if it's in a daily driver best option ... keep it simple

Thanks boofhead.
I'm still running stock 12in rims, so I'll have to nick some 13's from somewhere to get to the mag shop

Do you get a decent pedal without a master cyl or is it rock hard & lifeless?

How about the rear drums, did you have any trouble with them locking?

the pedal is only a little heavier than with the drums but was already running a tandem cylinder. not as light as i'd expect it to be with a booster but the pedal feel's pretty good had no trouble with the rear drums and have had a very reputable brake shop look over the whole set up, the're opinion is the balance should stay right with this upgrade.

if you're running 12's now you'll need to get some 13's as the 12's don't fit over the caliper i run 13x5.5" and haven't got a problem and i know a ute with 15x6" that needed the lip rolled and the guard pumped marginally. offsets the big player in it, but you should be right with most 13x5.5" s that don't have a huge offset

Sick!! I was hoping I wouldnt have to stuff around with changing the brake lines and all that gear. I was hoping for 13x6 or 14x6 jellybeans,minilites, dragways or somthing else from the era. I'll have to see if my girlfriend's micra mags will fit on when I take it for a test run should be good for a laugh if nothing else.

From what I can get out of the previous posts, you just have to take the little plastic valve out of the front circuit of the master cyl. when you change over to disks on the front....... is that right?

Thanks for the help.

Micra wheels shouldn't fit... wrong stud pattern

Does your ute have the twin bottle master on it ?..... if not you'll need to change it
Let me know I can help you with the pipes,hoses,master side of things once you get the struts sorted

Plenty of wheels at PickaPart.... or if you get desperate give me a hollar I might have something you can borrow

Thanks, you're right about the micra wheels, I never looked under the nutcovers till now.

I have the twin master, so that's all good & hopefully I can get the hoses to work without making up new lines....... but if I do need to I'll be hollerin' for sure

Dont you hate those threads that go quiet and you dont know if it all worked or not?

I'll keep this one going with as much info about the conversion as possible.

I have compared the 120y (alloy girlock brake version) and stanza struts & will add info on the 1200 drums once I have ripped them out/

Biggest difference that may cause problems: the stanza steering arms are longer (146mm) than the 120y ones (138mm) these have different bolt spacing and cannot be interchanged. This will give a slower steering response and has implications for wheel alignment, (toe out increases as you increase lock) Does any one know about this???? does it actually cause problems or just ignore it?


Total strut length for both the stanza and 120y, from the surface of the strut hat(?) that bolts into the tower, to the bottom of the strut where the steering arm bolts on, is 660 mm. The stanza struts are longer in total, because the bearing goes up through the tower (like the 1200), whereas the 120y sit flush.

The distance from the C/L of the strut to the front face of the hub (measured on the same angle as the axle) is 112mm for the 120Y & 125mm for the stanza. the hub is much narrower on the 120y, but the disk sits further out from the strut than the stanza, so the difference between the two is less than it appears.

spring length: top of the top spring seat to the bottom- narrow part- of the bottom spring cup:- 120y- 380mm, stanza 360mm

strut tube length from where the steering arm bolts on to the bottom of the spring cup:- 120y- 280mm, stanza 295mm

strut tube diameter: 120y- 45mm, stanza- 50.7

Backspace measurement for wheel fitment: measured up from from the hub face, and 90 degrees in towards the strut.

120y- 114mm for 13in wheels & 116 mm for 14 in wheels.
stanza- 128 for 13 in wheels & 130mm for 14 in wheels.

These measurements are the total, so in order to have enough clearance you need to subtract about 20mm (or more depending on how much bulge there is in the sidewall of your tyres) This measurement get greater as you get further from the axle because of the camber angle built into the strut.

The weight difference (increase in unsprung mass) is fairly significant, the stanza struts are about 25% heavier.
120y- 16.5kg, stanza - 22 kg

Post back if you find this interesting/useful (or if you reckon its not right) & I will keep the details coming.

If you want to do it legally in perth...good luck.

The max increase in track is 25mm over standard width.

with stanza struts and lower control arms. (stanza springs) you get positive camber.

reducing the positive camber, to about zero, increases the front track.........15mm wider than the maximum increase allowed....ie the track ends up 40mm wider than standard. ie illegal.

and thats with wheels which have such a large offset, that they nearly rub against the strut!!!!

Thanks, Datsik Ill keep it in mind. I was worried about that.......... You sound like you're talking from experience??

You had a few posts a while back about a 4-AG20V conversion did you get it sorted & registered? or hassles with rego? What brakes did you use?