Over the weekend i fitted up the super e-ram electric supercharger to my 97 magna 3.0 V6 (diamante to some). This is meant to give 2 psi of boost. and around 8% hp gain.
I fitted it all correctly, checked it was working, sucking right direction etc, no rstrictions 4" intake all the way through.

It did not improve performance at all. I did numerous 400m runs with it on and with it off and there is the same variation. I tried switching it on by hand when already accelerating and you can hear but do not feel it kick in. I have been in and driven low boost petrol and diesel vehicles before, and you should esily know when boost kicks in.

I am very disappointed, there dyno proofs and testimonials are all good and not over the top, but not the same for me.

has anyone else had any experience or know anyone who has with this? did they get any gain? It seems i spent about A$1200 for nothing.

I suspected that this would be the case with these things, but its interested to hear from someone who's tried it and proven they don't work.

One thing you could try is a smaller intake, as maybe it is having trouble pressurising the 4" intake. But, other than that i would be expressing my disgust at the company and demanding my money back

From another forum re: the same product:

We were so curious that we actually dyno'd one of these suckers.

10hp net loss across the board. It created more of a restriction than anything. They can create boost only against a static amount of air, and not against an engine drawing air out of a large volume area (like the intake manifold).
Here is my recommendation for anyone thinking about an electric supercharger or electric turbo.... it can work, but you need to learn some math first! You need to learn about the relationships between current, resistance and power. You also need to learn about the CFM air volume requirements of an engine spinning X rpm. Now calculate how much cfm is drawn by an engine. Next calculate the boosted cfm requirements for your target boost of 0.5 or 2 psi, whatever.... Once you have that number, find a fan capable of delivering X cfm at whatever rpm.... Now go find an electric motor big enough (note I'm saying big enough) to deliver that fans necessary rpm and power. Once you have that calculate the total reactive load that will be placed on your vehicles charging system. This translates directly into a power loss to run the fan. You'll find out after you do the math, that you need one hell of a big motor for the fan (much bigger than anyone sells), it draws one heck of a reactive load, you'll need a better charging system, the motor and fan will weight a whole bunch, are too big to fit under your hood, and a few other reality type wake up call things.

The theory is more sound than some think. The math will show the impracticality of it all. If you want to skip the research and just read about it, Car Craft did the math in an article a few years ago. The motor they ended up finding that would work weighed a hundred to two hundred pounds IIRC.

Don't be scammed by people who are only trying to steal your money. There are many, many scams in the automotive enthusiast world, and lots of them are supported by pretty graphs and dyno charts. The fact is that most "independent testing" isn't independent at all, and most of it is pure fabrication. It is done to convince you to part with your money, and that is all.

the piping in front of the e-ram is the stock big rubber elbow so i cant change that, dont think thats the problem anyway.

i thought it was probably robbing power by feel due to draining current that reduced current to spark.
the other thing i think is that regardless of what cfm it can move without resistance, pressurizing air is another matter. i suspect that unless blades overlap like on a true turbocharger it wont work. if you have blades with gaps between to allow air to pass when its not activated, then when it is activated the "backpressure" will still escape.

they have a refund policy if you provide photos to show you have installed it correctly and provide b4 and after dyno at your own expense. for me even if i get the money back of about A$900 for the unit, i am out of pocket another A$50 each way for shipping, and A$250 for import duty, plus another A$100 odd for the dyno...

I should have posted the question here before buying it. On the magna forum they were sceptical but noone had actually tried it. There is very little real technical experience or knowledge there. I guess this is why respectable mags dont advertise it and you never see a decent car in any mag running it. I went for it because as you said, in thoery it should work.

I also did some research on these things and it is very restrictive (especially on a 5.0) which is why I am in the process of building a true ram air manifold for a twin SU setup. So just for another insite I would go for a ram air setup instead of an electric supercharger I will try and post some photos as it goes in

There was an interesting article on www.autospeed.com about these devices. I believe they published similar results to what was stated above. And the manufacturers threatened legal action.

Its been a while since high school for me, but I think for these devices to work the way they claim, they'd have to be exempt from Newton's principles.

What brand is it?
Was it one of those turbo zet things?
I rmember I was thinkging of one of those things years ago... It took a yahoo search and skipping the company website to find out what real people thought about it...
Sucks.

Sorry about your loss.
This contraption right here seems to be the real deal. It seems as though the boost is limited because of battery drain. I guess you use it occasionally like nitrous.
Thomas Knight electric supercharger

Through a weiand 6/71 on her.. then she'ill move!

Lobster, its the E-Ram from E-Racing.
i emailed the company and let em know what i thought, they got straight back to me and suggested blocking the oil breather return to inlet manifold hose, as boost can escape through there. I will try it tomorrow.