Hi guys,
I usually use my little blue datsun 1200 ute to drive to work up until a few days ago. I got to work (around 6pm, getting dark) and it just dumped a heap of radiator fluid. I had a quick look and it seemed that the water was coming what I thought was the water pump. No biggie, although Ive never really touched this ute with a spanner yet I thought Id have a go at changing the water pump.

I started on it this morning, pulling radiotor out etc to get more room. On closer inspection it doesnt look like it was the water pump at all but the timing chain cover BEHIND the waterpump area,which has got me a bit bemused. Has my water pump dropped a seal and has pressured the timing chain area and is pushing the water out of the seal between the block and timing chain ??? Im assuming that Id better take the timing chain cover of to have a look, but I thought Id just check the procedure(of removal of the timing chain cover) with you guys as the only manual I have is a 1200 body and electrical guide.

Also, I removed the 5 bolts/nuts that hold the water pump on I noticed that there seem to be a type of grub screw between the timing case and the pump. I see no easy way to get this off, is it necessary to remove it or is it a locating lug ??

Cheers guys, looks like Im stuck driving the new car around for a few days :).

Hiya - someone gave me a 120Y once and it was my first A series powered car. It came to me with the problem you are describing and upon further investigation the alloy timing case had corroded from the inside and was leaking. You'll need a new cover.

My 120Y did that once, So i filled it back up with water and it never did it again. (problem was antifreeze causing it to leak. Simple solution - dont use antifreeze. Not too good for your engine though.

Tyrie: Mate, have a look at my location :). Anti-freeze isnt something Im using....

Got the water pump off with a little gentle persusian with my friend Mr Hammer and can see that the assumption of the timing chain cover filling with water is waaaaay of. I can see how the water channels through the timing chain cover now. As teretonga suggested it might be corroded, but externally it still looks fine. I think Im going to have to by a small mirror and stick it into the block with a torch to inspect the inside of the leak.

I am a lazy bastard, Im thinking about finding a sealant of sorts to stop the spray. I dont think the water pump bolts were that extremly tight so maybe a little more tension on them while tightening wont go astray.

Water pump is fine, bit corroded. Probably chase down a new one anyways..

The water pump bolts go into the water galleries in the block. Try putting sealent on the bolts when you put them back in. This happened to me on a fresh rebuild in which I had inspected everthing so it could just be that. Mine wasnt leaking heaps though just a constant drip.

Better clear how much it actually leaks, the leak is more like a spray when the car is running. Enough to half empty radiator with 5-7 mins of the car running.

Freak: will do that with new pump. Ill have a look at some sealant at autobarn next time I drop by it.

Quote:You should ALWAYS use coolant in the engine. Modern coolant is usually an anti-freeze, anti-boil mixture that also has a lubricant for the pump seal & corrosion inhibitors to prevent nasty things happening to your head & other alloy parts. Never mix diferent coolants, always flush out the cooling system & refill with a known coolant if you are unsure of what's in there now. I use the genuine Nissan stuff in my 810 /200B
Never use just plain water.