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This is part of the reason I'd recommend a larger engine, bikes like the Hayabusa, GSX1400 and ZX14 have much more solid gearboxes than a lot of the 600cc (etc) bikes which are built to save every gram possible.

On the topic of motors, you also need to remember that having been designed for use at 350-400kg (220kg + rider + pillion) the motors will need the CR or tune revisited to save it detonating.

The larger motors also allow better performance. The big bikes run 140-150mph at the drags, so if you can get a car down to say 600kg and do a few performance mods (exhaust system, cams, etc) you should still have something capable of running 11s.

Using the argument that you save $1-2k on the initial motor purchase is a little misguided - you're about to spend a small fortune setting up the rest of the car so to cut a corner like that you end up with a poor result and lots of 'wasted' money.

Very good points if the gearbox on the 600cc is weaker then
even at 500kg it will be a problem. The only way to secure
a cheaper big motor would be to go get it from America as
the local 1300/1400 motors are very pricey. Problem is the
duty and the rest unless it can be brought in with other
stuff by container like Caseys Dad or some other mobs do.

Any opinions on a modern V-twin Suzuki 1783cc twin cam
multi valved with a shaft drive therefore big capacity
with less hp then boosted.
The Suzuki Boulevard is 360kg dry so two riders, packed
and fueled can reach 200 extra average so 560kg.

since I haven't read the entire thread this may already of been answered but what about the torque rating of the MC motors? MY 1200 ZRX has gob's of HP's but my 600cc single Yamaha is way torque-ier feeling then the 4 cyl. 1200cc Kawa, repowering a car that weigh's in at 1600 #'s plus is a lot different then a 500# motorcycle. I'd think the torque rating would be a pretty important factor making this work well.

I'd think a big twin from a Ducati or Suzuki 1200 (moto guzzi, that'd look cool)or something along those line (lots to chose from) would work better ?????

Ive got a 4.5 tonne camper that runs an asthmatic pushrod 3 bearing cranked
2 litre all cast iron dinosaur. The diff is wait for it 9:1 ratio and it has
a crawler gear in first of 6:1 or something in case it needs to go up very
serious inclines or get off the mark with the weight. Its been round Oz Twice.
Thats 105hp 125lbs torque pulling more close to 5 tonnes. It overtakes semis at
140kmh on a slight incline uphill and revs maybe at 4000rpm at 100kph cruising
with 16R LT tires. Divide 5000kg by 10 = 500kg engine size = 200cc it must be all
in the final gearing. I guess like if the car has a 4.5-5.11 diff ratio the bike engine
will be pretty good getting off the line or pulling more weight than its designed for.

A hayabusa makes max hp at 9500rpm as I remember with 1300cc so with 4.7 to 5:1
It will be magic with the right diameter wheels.

A 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R makes 100 kW (130 hp) @ 14000 rpm
48.1 lb·ft (65.2 N·m) @ 11,500 rpm so would need at least a 5.1 final.

Motorcycle engine drives the rear wheel of motorcycle and powers to forward motion, motorcycles identified by their cylinders, exhaust pipes, cylinder heads.

Our old Kawasaki Z1300 is 6 cylinder, shaft drive and water cooled. Would love to put one of those engines in a Datto. The bike weighs 298 kg.They came out in carby and fuel injected models.

moto guzzi engines are all shaft driven but im unsure if there able to be modified to produce more hp i know they've got plenty of torque

moto guzzi are beautiful engines but pricey.
Great configuration though like normal north south.

I want to know more about this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiX8A9fexDU

busa in a coupe!

Well found!

Fantastic engine for a conversion.

Makes me want to build one!