Hey all,

Its getting to that point in my turbo build where I have to run oil lines for the turbo.

For the oil line to the turbo I'll be T'ing of the oil sender with a -4AN hose and for the return line I will be trying to weld a boss into the sump.

Now the issue is; how do I go about removing the sump?

I dont want the pull the motor and removing the cross member is a big job isnt it? What is involved with removing the cross member?

Should removing the sump be too big of a job I can try to ram a metal spike in the sump and tap the hole....then realise its crap and pull the sump anyway lol.

Thoughts? ideas?

To do a decent job I don't think you can get away without pulling the sump..

You could leave the motor in but will have to lift it up from the x-member to get clearance (if that even gives you enough?).

Might just be easier to bite the bullet from the start and save the mucking around?

From memory the easiest way is to support the engine from the top and drop the crossmember and starter off and then the sump will come off without a problem.

Hmm it's still alot of hassle also have the oil pump/filter in the way a little.

I say find a spare sump and do that one ready so when the changeover comes it can happen straight away and you can get it all done in one go. That's the quickest way I can imagine.

I reckon pull the entire thing out, there is nothing worse than trying to get it all happening when your in the most awkward position.

I think a fair few people have done the spike method, maybe this could do just for the time being?

Thats my thought, use the spike method for now then when the motor goes pop (185,000km motor on 18psi boost wont last too long) and when I rebuild it I can TIG weld in a threaded boss.

I can machine spikes and make test holes to figure out the correct size then tap the hole with grease + oil change and I should be safe.

Anyone know the thickness of the sump steel? 1.2mm?

they have a lip up top, should be the same thickness throughout.

The thickness of the sump steel wouldn't be more than 0.8 I reckon.

Tell us more about your turbo setup. Some pics would be great too, is this the setup with the bike carb?

I have a bunch of pics on my phone at random steps in making the mani, inlet, charge pipe, dump pipe, water injection, etc. I'll do a write up once I'm done - if I start it now I'd prob get half way though it an abandon it lol.

Its a pretty high spec setup as Ive got a lathe, mill, mig, tig, pipe bender, pedistal drill, bench grinder, linisher, die grinder, drop saw and all the tooling to suit my machine tools in my shed so no short cuts here as I'm making all the parts on my time/equiptment.

The setup will use the Mikuni HSR 45 I've orderd off "ePay".

Back on topic...

I've looked under the hood a bit and noticed I could plumb the drain into the timing cover?!

On the right hand side (looking from the front) near the bottom on the side is a 1 inch wide flat area that I could drill/tap the fitting into. Check the picture to see what I mean.

The idea of this is so that I can remove the cover easily from the car and still drill/tap in a decent drain.

Can anyone see what could be wrong with having the drain like this? It still is above the oil level so I think its ok. I can still route the drain to this location (clears the fan belt buy 1 inch so thats ok and it will still miss the near by water outlet)

Only down side I see is needing to replace gaskets but I already have a full gasket set plus I can inspect the water pump bearings/seals while Im at it - timing chain too.

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I’m not sure that putting it there will be less trouble than putting it into the sump. The timing cover has two studs (which can be removed mind you) that locate into the last two front holes of the sump.

Also when reassembling, the front seal relies on the fixing pressure of the sump screws to press and hold it into place. Seeing as you will try to fit the cover on with the sump already fixed you may have some difficulty with the front seal seating or pressing down properly as you will have limitation to how much you can press down due to the water-pump studs (and crank nose) restricting any movement in that direction or axis. I guess you could remove the studs and go with some bolts but like I said that much work might exceed the other option. You also have the front pulley to deal with, these can sometimes be tight and you need space to get a pulley or slider in there to remove.

That is a good location though but either way, sump or timing cover will require almost the same amount of work.

I reckon there is no short way about it, either pull out the motor and feed the return via the sump, or pull it out remove the sump remove the timing cover and plumb the return in through there. Won’t you have to change your cam anyway or are you running the stockie? Could be an opportunity to change that at the same time?

Just punch a hole in the sump with a very sharp spike like you said. Ive done it more than once. This is also how the APS turbo kits are fitted by authorised instalers. Then weld in the tube for the turbo drain (use the tig if possable). Just make sure the oil can drain on a reasonable angle into the sump. Make sure its above the full oil line too.

Keep us updated, another turbo A series... Way to go!