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120Y - 1200 Sway Bar Swap - 10 Steps.
Just can't stay away
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2011/8/7 1:24
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Thought this may be useful for people who are new to 1200's and are considering upgrading thier original 1200 swaybay to the 120Y swaybar. I'm no mechanic but thought I'd have a crack at it. This is a good and relatively cheap upgrade. This may or may not be the correct way to do this but it worked for me and was pretty simple. Happy to take advice if it is wrong. All in all took me about 40mins to do.

1) Obtain a 120Y swaybar, including the 2 U brackets and the 2 bushes that fit the brackets. Now is a good time to replace the bushes with some urethane ones, up to you though.

2) Jack up the front end of the car and place on stands under the front x-member.

3) There are 4 12mm bolts holding the U brackets in (2 each). Remove all 4 and the bar will come away from the chassis. Keep the bolts.

4) The swaybar is also attached at each end with a 13mm nut which holds down a washer, a bush and then the bar. Remove the nut from each end. Keep the nut the buses and the washers. Pay attention to how much threaded section there is coming through the nut!!

5) You should now be able to wiggle the swaybar free and manouver it out from under the car.

6) Take your 'new' 120Y bar and ensure the 'dip' in the bar is down (it needs to be to clear the sump). Manouver it into place and reattach ONE end with the bar, the bush the washer and the nut. Tighten nut until it has some decent purchase on the thread, dont completely tighten.

7) If you attached the passenger side first now fit the bracket on the drivers side (or vise versa). Using either the bush and bracket that came from the 120Y(or your new bush) bolt the bracket in until tight.

8) This should now position the drivers side end of the bar pretty close to where it needs to be. To make life easier gently jack up the wheel under the lower control arm and you will beable to thread on the bar, the bush, the washer and again the nut. Tighten nut until it has taken a good amount of thread.

9) Reattach passenger side U bracket just like you did in step 7.

10) Lower car off of jack/stands so all 4 wheels are taking the weight of the car and tighten the end nuts until the same amount of thread is coming through the nut as there was before you started.

Bingo - Kick ass sway bar.

Posted on: 2012/2/29 23:34
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Re: 120Y - 1200 Sway Bar Swap - 10 Steps.
Home away from home
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From Melbourne
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Tick! Put that in the wiki for the next time someone asks the question

Posted on: 2012/2/29 23:50
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For a cheap car these datos can get super expensive....!
All the bits for my ute have been acquired, I only need time and a panel beater/painter! Anyone able to help
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Re: 120Y - 1200 Sway Bar Swap - 10 Steps.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Just curious, what is the benefit of the swap?

Posted on: 2012/3/1 2:23
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---1976 B120 "THE GENERAL REE"--- Former build
---1980 B120 Vanilla Ice --- current build
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Re: 120Y - 1200 Sway Bar Swap - 10 Steps.
Just can't stay away
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The reason for the swap is that the standard B110/B120 sway bar is 17mm thick. The B210(120Y) is 20mm thick. Doesn't sound like much but the extra 3mm offers a BIG increase in stiffness.

It can also improve cornering without fitting stiffer, rougher riding springs. Sways bars only work during cornering, not on straights.

Posted on: 2012/3/1 2:33
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Re: 120Y - 1200 Sway Bar Swap - 10 Steps.
Home away from home
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2009/1/10 21:02
From dominican republic
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awesome mate, i will get my 120y sway bar some day and now i don't have to ask :P :D

Posted on: 2012/3/1 3:03
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