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- | Engine ignition timing (distributor spark timing) is the foundation of any tune-up. It is generally the first step you need to perform as all other [[tune-up]] and carburetor adjustments depend on ignition timing being correct. | + | Engine ignition timing ([[distributor]] spark timing) is the foundation of any tune-up. It is generally the first step you need to perform as all other [[tune-up]] and carburetor adjustments depend on ignition timing being correct. |
+ | |||
+ | {{SeeEx|Timing_Chain#Alignment|Timing Chain Alignment| for camshaft installation/timing chain orientation}}<br> | ||
= Overview = | = Overview = | ||
If you have the distributor out of the engine, see [[Installing Distributor]]. | If you have the distributor out of the engine, see [[Installing Distributor]]. | ||
- | The stock Datsun 1200 [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=245 distributor orientation] | + | The stock Datsun 1200 distributor orientation — vacuum advance pointing nearly straight forward |
- | <br><img size=400>http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/245.jpg</img> | + | <br>{{Album|245}} |
- | <br>vacuum advance pointing almost straight forward | + | |
- | The exact orientation '''is not important'''. Because the A-series has a gear drive, you can set the timing correctly at most orientations. | + | The exact orientation '''is not important'''. Because the A-series has a gear drive, you can set the timing correctly at most orientations as long as the plug wires point to the correct plugs. |
= General Procedure = | = General Procedure = | ||
Line 17: | Line 18: | ||
# Double-check the Initial Timing (per section below). Spec is 7 degrees BTDC (5 degrees North America) and safe for any A-series engine. This must be done after setting the dwell -- because changing the dwell affects the timing, but not vice-versa. | # Double-check the Initial Timing (per section below). Spec is 7 degrees BTDC (5 degrees North America) and safe for any A-series engine. This must be done after setting the dwell -- because changing the dwell affects the timing, but not vice-versa. | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=724 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/724.JPG] | + | {{Album|724|JPG}} |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=730 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/730.JPG] | + | |
- | NOTE: If you use the older pulley with | + | Set to 7 degrees BTDC (worldwide) or 5 degrees (USA) |
- | the newer cover, then you could get | + | <br>{{Album|730}} |
- | really weird timing readings | + | |
+ | <blockquote>NOTE: If you use the older pulley with the newer cover, then you could get really weird timing readings</blockquote> | ||
= Ignition Timing Specifications = | = Ignition Timing Specifications = | ||
Line 41: | Line 42: | ||
Almost all inline 4s have a firing order of 1-3-4-2 -- and certainly all Datsun fours. | Almost all inline 4s have a firing order of 1-3-4-2 -- and certainly all Datsun fours. | ||
- | NOTE: If the distributor is out of the | + | <blockquote>NOTE: If the distributor is out of the engine, see [[Installing Distributor]]</blockquote> |
- | engine, see [[Installing Distributor]] | + | |
- | First locate #1. | + | First locate #1. Trace the wire from the forward-most spark plug to the cap. In a factory orientation, #1 is as shown in this A12 photo |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22317 photo] | + | <br>{{Album|22317}} |
- | <br> <img size=400>http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/22317.jpg</img> | + | |
<br>The direction of rotation (Yellow arrow) is always opposite the direction that vacuum advance points (green arrow) -- for all engines, not just Datsuns. | <br>The direction of rotation (Yellow arrow) is always opposite the direction that vacuum advance points (green arrow) -- for all engines, not just Datsuns. | ||
Line 52: | Line 51: | ||
Here is the 1974-up distributor: | Here is the 1974-up distributor: | ||
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22318 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/22318.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|22318}} |
- | = Setting Dwell = | + | = Initial Timing = |
- | If your 1200 still has the factory contact points (if you haven't convereted to [[Electronic Ignition]]) you must set the dwell for perfect tune. To accurately check the contact points '''Dwell''' angle, use a dwell meter. This is far more accurate than simply setting the points-gap. | + | '''PREPARATION''' |
- | From the 1973 [[Factory Service Manual]]: | + | Before checking or setting the timing, make sure the [[#Setting Dwell|#dwell]] is correctly adjusted. Dwell setting affects the timing. |
- | * Dwell angle: 49-55 degrees | + | |
- | * Point gap: 0.45 to 0.55 mm (18-22 thousands inch) | + | |
- | NOTE: The same specifications are used for B10, B210 and B310 with contact-point ignition as well. | + | |
+ | To set the timing follow these steps: | ||
+ | # turn engine off. Set parking brake. Put transmission in neutral so that the engine will turn by hand. | ||
+ | # turn engine by carefully turning fan clockwise, until the timing marks line up (5 or 7 degrees BDTC). If the fan belt slips, you are turning it too fast -- or the belt is too loose ([[Fan belt#Minor Maintenance|tighten it]]!) | ||
+ | #: {{Album|730}} {{Album|724|JPG}} | ||
+ | # Pull cap off distributor. Is the rotor pointing at the Number 1 spark plug wire OR #4 wire? Good. | ||
- | The gap should be checked every 3,000 miles (5k) as part of a [[Tune-up]]. | + | == With Points == |
+ | With engine turned to the correct timing mark (as above): | ||
+ | # pull coil wire from cap. Lay atop the engine or strut tower, with the metal lead 1/4 inch from bare metal | ||
+ | # turn Key to IGN (do not start engine) | ||
+ | # Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly, not so much as to rotate the distributor | ||
+ | #: {{UploadPost|174_619445a382694.jpg|496207}} | ||
+ | # Grab the distributor housing and rotate it clockwise slightly until points appear closed | ||
+ | # Rotate housing anti-clockwise -- slowly -- until a spark appears at the coil wire | ||
+ | # Tighten distributor hold-down bolt | ||
+ | # Replace cap (ensure rotor still points to #1 or #4) | ||
+ | |||
+ | == With Electronic Ignition == | ||
+ | With engine turned to the correct timing mark (as above): | ||
+ | * Are the teeth aligned? Good, timing is correct. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If the timing needs adjusting: | ||
+ | # Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly. Be careful not to rotate the distributor while doing this | ||
+ | # Rotate housing clockwise slightly until the teeth align | ||
+ | # Tighten distributor hold-down bolt | ||
+ | # Replace cap (ensure rotor still points to #1 or #4) | ||
+ | |||
+ | Line up teeth (Vanette, E-series, and Sunny Truck) | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|17193}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[D4K|Matchbox]] Type: Line up teeth (blue lines) | ||
+ | <br>{{Album|22319}} | ||
+ | <br>Rotor should point to line (180 degrees opposite is OK too) | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Setting Dwell = | ||
+ | If your 1200 still has the factory contact points (if you haven't converted to [[Electronic Ignition]]) you must set the dwell for perfect tune. To accurately check the contact points '''Dwell''' angle, use a dwell meter. This is far more accurate than simply setting the points-gap. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The gap should be checked every 3,000 miles (5k) as part of a [[Tune-up]].{{OwnersManual|36|36|Be sure that the contact surfaces are clean and not burned. The correct gap of 0.018 to 0.022 in (0.45 to 0.55 mm) should be checked with a feeler gauge.}} From the 1973 [[Factory Service Manual]]: | ||
+ | * Dwell angle: 49-55 degrees | ||
+ | * Point gap: 0.45 to 0.55 mm (18-22 thousands inch) | ||
+ | NOTE: The same specifications are used for B10, B210 and B310 with contact-point ignition as well. | ||
- | <center><blockquote><table border=1 cellspacing=0><tr><td> | + | These days we recommend a dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge. The feeler gauge is fine with new points, but inaccurate with used points -- because the pitting/cratering that occurs with used points will throw off the measurement. |
- | USA 1972 [[Owners manual]] (see page 36 for points-gap details): | + | |
- | <br>[http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/owners_manual/1972 http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/owners_manual/1972/th_00_cover.jpg] [http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/owners_manual/1972/36.jpg http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/ddgonzal/Datsun%201200/owners_manual/1972/th_36.jpg] | + | |
- | <blockquote><hr>Be sure that the contact surfaces are clean and not burned.<br>The correct gap of 0.018 to 0.022 in (0.45 to 0.55 mm)<br>should be checked with a feeler gauge.<hr></blockquote></td></tr></table> | + | |
- | </blockquote></center>These days we recommend a dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge. The feeler gauge is fine with new points, but inaccurate with used points due to the pitting/cratering that occurs. | + | |
- | Dwell-Tachometer | + | Older style (analog) Dwell-Tachometers {{search|dwell+meter|are inexpensive $20 up}} |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=20098 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/20098.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|20098}} |
- | <br>Older style (analog) Dwell-Tachometer | + | |
# New points are gap-set to 0.018-0.021 inch. In a pinch you can use an old-fashioned matchbook cover, which is typically 20 thousands of an inch thick. | # New points are gap-set to 0.018-0.021 inch. In a pinch you can use an old-fashioned matchbook cover, which is typically 20 thousands of an inch thick. | ||
# Check the dwell | # Check the dwell | ||
# Readjust the gap until it reads 49-55 degrees | # Readjust the gap until it reads 49-55 degrees | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=20099 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/20099.jpg] | ||
- | <br>NOTE: On this type of scale with only 8- and 6-cylinder, 4-cylinder reading is DOUBLE 8-cylinder scale. | ||
- | Be patient when setting the dwell. You may need to slight re-adust the gap and re-check the dwell many times before it is 'right on'. This involves starting and stopping the engine multiple times. But it will be worth it when your 1200 purrs like a lion. | + | NOTE: On this type of scale with only 8-CYL and 6-CYL, 4-cylinder reading is DOUBLE 8-cylinder scale. |
+ | {{Album|20099}} | ||
- | = Initial Timing = | + | Be patient when setting the dwell. You may need to slightly re-adust the gap and re-check the dwell many times before it is 'right on'. This involves starting and stopping the engine multiple times. But it will be worth it when your 1200 purrs like a lion. |
- | Once the dwell is correct set, to check the timing follow these steps: | + | |
- | # turn engine off. Set parking brake. Put transmission in neutral | + | |
- | # turn engine by carefully turning fan clockwise, until the timing marks line up (5 or 7 degrees BDTC). If the fan belt slips, it's too loose (tighten it!) | + | |
- | #: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=730 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/730.JPG] | + | |
- | # Pull cap off distributor. Is the rotor pointing at the Number 1 spark plug wire OR #4 wire? Good. | + | |
- | # pull coil wire from cap. Lay atop the engine or strut tower, with the metal lead 1/4 inch from bare metal | + | |
- | # turn Key to IGN (do not start engine) | + | |
- | # Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly. Be careful not to rotate the distributor. | + | |
- | # Rotate housing clockwise slightly until points appear closed | + | |
- | # Rotate housing anti-clockwise -- slowly -- until a spark appears at the coil wire | + | |
- | # Tighten distributor hold-down bolt. You are done. | + | |
- | Checking timing with Electronic Ignition | + | To adjust the dwell, turn engine to TDC, remove the distributor cap, and turn this screw: |
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22319 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/22319.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|29356|was=Photo\23635.jpg}} |
+ | |||
+ | * If the dwell is too much, make the gap slightly wider | ||
+ | * If the dwell is too little, make the gap slight narrower | ||
+ | |||
+ | Re-tighten the lock screw (marked "loosen" in the photo) before starting the engine. | ||
= Setting Timing with Timing Light = | = Setting Timing with Timing Light = | ||
- | = Fine-tuning the Timing - Relative Timing Marks = | + | = Fine-Tuning = |
Note the timing marks on the A12 plate. These are fine-tuning Advance and Retard marks | Note the timing marks on the A12 plate. These are fine-tuning Advance and Retard marks | ||
- | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=3231 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/3231.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|3231}} |
+ | |||
+ | These are NOT used to time the engine (the marks on the crankshaft pulley are). But they are very useful for advancing or retarding the timing a degree or two. | ||
+ | |||
+ | # With engine in running condition with engine OFF,look down past the #1 spark plug, between the engine and the distributor to view the marks. Note which mark it is on | ||
+ | # Slightly loosen the distributor hold-down bolt, just enough so that the distributor will turn a little | ||
+ | # Rotate the distributor to change the timing. Turn distributor clockwise to advance, or anti-clockwise to retard | ||
+ | # Verify the timing mark, then tighten the hold-down bolt | ||
- | These are NOT used to time the engine (the marks on the crankshaft pulley are). But they are very useful for advancing or retarding the timing a degree or two. After installation, you can look down past the #1 spark plug, between the engine and the distributor to view the marks. | + | General process to find optimal timing after the timing has been set to "spec". |
+ | * Advance it two degrees (turn distributor clockwise), test drive, repeat until it [[Pinging|pings]] at part throttle | ||
+ | * Retard it one degree (turn counter-clockwise) to remove the pinging | ||
- | <ol> | + | Once you have this, you can note the exact timing and next time use it instead of the factory specification. |
- | <li>Advance it two degrees (turn distributor clockwise), test drive, repeat until it pings at part throttle</li> | + | |
- | <li>Retard it one degree (turn counter-clockwise) to remove the pinging</li> | + | |
- | </ol> | + | |
- | Once you have this, you can note the crankshaft timing and next time just set it using a [[Timing Light]]. | + | |
= Advanced Timing = | = Advanced Timing = | ||
Line 125: | Line 153: | ||
Whether a stock engine, or a modified, check this out! You can possibly increase hp AND fuel economy at the same time for free! | Whether a stock engine, or a modified, check this out! You can possibly increase hp AND fuel economy at the same time for free! | ||
- | See main article: [[Spark Curve]] | + | {{Main|Spark Curve}} |
- | + | * Dialing in Distributor Spark Curve | |
- | * Dialing in Distributor Spark Curve. | + | * Spark Retard, for boosted engines |
- | * Spark Retard, for boosted engines | + | * Fully electronic spark timing |
- | * Fully electronic spark timing | + | |
- | [[Category:Engine Electrical System]] | + | [[Category:Engine Electrical System]]{{End}} |
Current revision
Engine ignition timing (distributor spark timing) is the foundation of any tune-up. It is generally the first step you need to perform as all other tune-up and carburetor adjustments depend on ignition timing being correct.
Contents |
Overview
If you have the distributor out of the engine, see Installing Distributor.
The stock Datsun 1200 distributor orientation — vacuum advance pointing nearly straight forward
The exact orientation is not important. Because the A-series has a gear drive, you can set the timing correctly at most orientations as long as the plug wires point to the correct plugs.
General Procedure
- Check the gap on the plugs then put them back in. Spec is 0.028-0.032 inch for the A12. Use 0.035" for the smoothest idle. Re-gap if necessary.
- Set the point-gap or dwell. Use a dwell meter if at all possible as it is much more accurate than the points gap, Set dwell 49 to 55 degrees.
- If the points are brand new, a feeler gauge can be used to set the gap to 0.020 inch. Incorrect Dwell can cause rough running, as does bad points. For example, it might only run at high idle, and not very smooth at that.
- NOTE: If the points are used, do not set them via feeler gauge. They pit during normal operation will which render gap measurement incorrect.
- Double-check the Initial Timing (per section below). Spec is 7 degrees BTDC (5 degrees North America) and safe for any A-series engine. This must be done after setting the dwell -- because changing the dwell affects the timing, but not vice-versa.
Set to 7 degrees BTDC (worldwide) or 5 degrees (USA)
NOTE: If you use the older pulley with the newer cover, then you could get really weird timing readings
Ignition Timing Specifications
With Contact Points
point gap (new points): 0.018-0.021 in (0.45 - 0.55 mm) dwell (new or used points): 49-55 degrees Spark plug gap: 0.31-0.35 in (0.8 - 0.9 mm) static timing: 7 degrees BTDC static timing: 5 degrees BTDC (with north american Distributors)
Late 1200 Electronic Ignition
point gap: Not Applicable dwell angle: Not Applicable Spark plug gap: 0.35 in (0.9 mm) static timing: 7 degrees BTDC
Firing Order
Almost all inline 4s have a firing order of 1-3-4-2 -- and certainly all Datsun fours.
NOTE: If the distributor is out of the engine, see Installing Distributor
First locate #1. Trace the wire from the forward-most spark plug to the cap. In a factory orientation, #1 is as shown in this A12 photo
The direction of rotation (Yellow arrow) is always opposite the direction that vacuum advance points (green arrow) -- for all engines, not just Datsuns.
Next, following the direction of rotation (Yellow arrow), count off 1-3-4-2.
Here is the 1974-up distributor:
Initial Timing
PREPARATION
Before checking or setting the timing, make sure the #dwell is correctly adjusted. Dwell setting affects the timing.
To set the timing follow these steps:
- turn engine off. Set parking brake. Put transmission in neutral so that the engine will turn by hand.
- turn engine by carefully turning fan clockwise, until the timing marks line up (5 or 7 degrees BDTC). If the fan belt slips, you are turning it too fast -- or the belt is too loose (tighten it!)
- Pull cap off distributor. Is the rotor pointing at the Number 1 spark plug wire OR #4 wire? Good.
With Points
With engine turned to the correct timing mark (as above):
- pull coil wire from cap. Lay atop the engine or strut tower, with the metal lead 1/4 inch from bare metal
- turn Key to IGN (do not start engine)
- Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly, not so much as to rotate the distributor
- Grab the distributor housing and rotate it clockwise slightly until points appear closed
- Rotate housing anti-clockwise -- slowly -- until a spark appears at the coil wire
- Tighten distributor hold-down bolt
- Replace cap (ensure rotor still points to #1 or #4)
With Electronic Ignition
With engine turned to the correct timing mark (as above):
- Are the teeth aligned? Good, timing is correct.
If the timing needs adjusting:
- Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly. Be careful not to rotate the distributor while doing this
- Rotate housing clockwise slightly until the teeth align
- Tighten distributor hold-down bolt
- Replace cap (ensure rotor still points to #1 or #4)
Line up teeth (Vanette, E-series, and Sunny Truck)
Matchbox Type: Line up teeth (blue lines)
Rotor should point to line (180 degrees opposite is OK too)
Setting Dwell
If your 1200 still has the factory contact points (if you haven't converted to Electronic Ignition) you must set the dwell for perfect tune. To accurately check the contact points Dwell angle, use a dwell meter. This is far more accurate than simply setting the points-gap.
The gap should be checked every 3,000 miles (5k) as part of a Tune-up.1972 USA Owners manual (Page 36 ... 36):
Be sure that the contact surfaces are clean and not burned. The correct gap of 0.018 to 0.022 in (0.45 to 0.55 mm) should be checked with a feeler gauge.
* Dwell angle: 49-55 degrees * Point gap: 0.45 to 0.55 mm (18-22 thousands inch)
NOTE: The same specifications are used for B10, B210 and B310 with contact-point ignition as well.
These days we recommend a dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge. The feeler gauge is fine with new points, but inaccurate with used points -- because the pitting/cratering that occurs with used points will throw off the measurement.
Older style (analog) Dwell-Tachometers are inexpensive $20 upᴳ
- New points are gap-set to 0.018-0.021 inch. In a pinch you can use an old-fashioned matchbook cover, which is typically 20 thousands of an inch thick.
- Check the dwell
- Readjust the gap until it reads 49-55 degrees
NOTE: On this type of scale with only 8-CYL and 6-CYL, 4-cylinder reading is DOUBLE 8-cylinder scale.
Be patient when setting the dwell. You may need to slightly re-adust the gap and re-check the dwell many times before it is 'right on'. This involves starting and stopping the engine multiple times. But it will be worth it when your 1200 purrs like a lion.
To adjust the dwell, turn engine to TDC, remove the distributor cap, and turn this screw:
- If the dwell is too much, make the gap slightly wider
- If the dwell is too little, make the gap slight narrower
Re-tighten the lock screw (marked "loosen" in the photo) before starting the engine.
Setting Timing with Timing Light
Fine-Tuning
Note the timing marks on the A12 plate. These are fine-tuning Advance and Retard marks
These are NOT used to time the engine (the marks on the crankshaft pulley are). But they are very useful for advancing or retarding the timing a degree or two.
- With engine in running condition with engine OFF,look down past the #1 spark plug, between the engine and the distributor to view the marks. Note which mark it is on
- Slightly loosen the distributor hold-down bolt, just enough so that the distributor will turn a little
- Rotate the distributor to change the timing. Turn distributor clockwise to advance, or anti-clockwise to retard
- Verify the timing mark, then tighten the hold-down bolt
General process to find optimal timing after the timing has been set to "spec".
- Advance it two degrees (turn distributor clockwise), test drive, repeat until it pings at part throttle
- Retard it one degree (turn counter-clockwise) to remove the pinging
Once you have this, you can note the exact timing and next time use it instead of the factory specification.
Advanced Timing
Base timing
Stock base timing is 7 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).
Stock base timing for EXHAUST emission controlled engines is 5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). Because this is factored into the distributor curves, do not advance it further at risk of exceeding the maximum advance at high RPM. The emission controlled distributors have more mechanical advance to make up for the lesser base timing.
Tuning for Power
The stock distributors have a mechanical advance tolerance of +- 2 degrees at the crankshaft. That's a huge difference -- up to 4 degrees retarded is still within specs -- and is why you should tune your A12 for power.
Whether a stock engine, or a modified, check this out! You can possibly increase hp AND fuel economy at the same time for free!
* Dialing in Distributor Spark Curve * Spark Retard, for boosted engines * Fully electronic spark timing