The engine runs a A14 crank and Mitsubishi Mirage 76mm pistons. Jeff Taylor supplied the Stud kit after i gave him the part numbers. i think it cost about $170.

ARP-202-4202 for A12 with oil bolt

ARP-202-4203 for A14/15

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It's good to hear of someome else that uses the A14 crank in a 1200 block.

I have taken a note of the part numbers & i will see if i can get some over here on the eastern side of the island. Like you, i am basing my engine on a 1200 GX core but with a bore & stroke of 77 x 77mm.

Thanks for the info.

What engine mount rubbers did you go with? Cortina?

cheers

Engine mount is from Datsun 200B

Part number MT8214

1200rc says whats so good about having studs?

i much prefer bolts

Thats interesting as four out of five women that were questioned today said that they would much prefer some young fresh studs in their cars instead of a handfull of used old bolts.

With Studs come nuts too

and ya wonder why you dont see many chicks on this site.......

was me saying i prefer bolts, get ya hand off it and tell me the answer

yeah what gives? studs bolts all the same, hell i even call the bolts studs as in "LLOYD, get me tha head studs, he brings bolts" which is what i wanted

If you want Lloyd to bring you head bolts, then you should ask for head bolts. When you want tyres, do you ask for hubcaps?

These studs have a higher tensile rating & are fully screwed home in the block BEFORE any clamping load is imposed on them.
The poor old block does not have anything screwing with its threads under high tension while the head is being torqued down.
The studs also have, in most cases, a fine thread at the top. This means that a greater clamping force can be generated for the same rotational torque on the nut.
Less chance of thread striping in the block when high clamping forces are needed.

This is the A.R.P. catalogue & you will need Adobe Reader to read it. [It's free]
By scroling to page 36 you will see a technical discussion on head studs versus head bolts.
This catalogue is very comprehensive & goes into a great deal of explanation of the advantages & disadvantages of various designs in relation to fasteners.
Well worth your time to read it

So there you go Tom210, studs & bolts, the're not "all the same" are they.

Found that VPW can supply these stud kits for around $145 but they are special order items and take 6 - 8 weeks to come in from the states.
Anyone found any other suppliers that keep them in stock?

yeah cheers for that, i know there not the same.. and i know i said they were but i just started calling them studs not bolts, dunno why, people seem to know what i mean.
head studs and headbolts practically do the same thing, yeah? tyres and hubcaps dont, a better example would be tyres and wheels people ask for they tyres and really mean wheels. at the end of the day, they both hold the head on, my dodgy interpretaton of "the same".

rally1200, How do you find the engine tempreture during special stages with the D/C water pump? Have you removed the water pump completely? Been thinking about putting one on the Sunny. Any noticable power increase.

Murray still planed to have a drive in November.

Lemonhead: the waterpump is very good but the controller seems stupid. temp will vary, it will sit on 80 then for on reson jump up to 90 then jumpes back to 80. it seem like the controller takes time to react. and from what i have heard if you choose not to run the controller and stick with a thermostat and run the pump flatout all the time you will burn out the motor.

But all said at 8000rpm the engine dose run cooler.

I killed the last engine in the last rally and have only just rebuilt it. i have changed capacity from 1475cc down to 1397cc to keep in the P1 class and the cam is different and also the quads. after dyno the old engine was putting out 104hp at wheels now puts out 105hp at wheels.

rally1200, what engine management system have you got for your injection, can it monitor/run your water pump. Will get the Haltech to run mine.

Is the new cam one of Jeff's "special" cams.

105 hp at the wheels is impressive for a P1 class car. Was the 104 hp done with the old intake system, I ask because when I had the fuel injection system set up on the dyno I had a air box set up over the throttle bodies and it went hard (I thought) 125 hp at the wheels, since then I have pissed off the air box and gone back to Uni Filters, couldn't believe the difference! I've done a few other little mods as well and when I get the D/C water pump on it I"ll go and do a power run on a dyno.

Lemonhead: i use a Wolf 3D, the problem with efi controll is that the water pump uses variable voltage 3-12 volt at a max of 7.5amps. The wolf is only an on/off aux output but even if it wasn't the current would require some sort of power transistor.

The cam is a jeff special 247A which is 50/70 intake and 80/40 exhaust with 300' timming and .430 lift seem good at 6000-8000

The old engine had the tpi efi setup and the new on the quads. i thought the quads would give me better top end power but all it has done is given me less low down torque.

I might try the old tpi setup with the new engine to see the difference.

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This is why I always thought the H92 nissan injection plenium is sooooo sort after for rally use. Can product good results from 3000 all the way up to 8500 if set up right and matched with the right cam/head/tb etc.
Mate all this with a good strong close ratio gearbox and you have yourself a giant killer that will leave most P1 cars eating your dust.
Good work on your engine rally1200, its almost exactly the same bottom end arrangement I run in my coupe. Mine comes out at 1397cc as well to keep 3cc under the P1 limit. My coupe took out the 2000 NSW P1 state championship with this set up - you will make most other P1's sit up and take notice and have a heap of fun at the same time - good job mate.

so let me get this straight...

you guys are spending near $200 on head studs, when head bolts are free...
and you dont know
WHY??????????????????????

how can studs magically not apply load to the threads in the block??? if the stud is in tension... which is has to be.... it must be applying a load which will be equal to that of which a bolt will apply with the same tension in it...

it's exactly the same in that the stud will turn down into the block as you tighten the nut up (unless you've already tightened it in tighter than that), in my opinion the stud just allows a second location for the thing to come loose, and as with manifold studs they are a pain in the arse

the only way i can see it being of benefit is that as a bolt goes in it applies some load on maybe a few less than the full amount of threads, but this load is minimal and negligable compared to the final torque applied in the end anyway

please tell me what im missing here, me and lagwagon were arguing this one out yesterday

ok, i just read your ARP catalogue

it made me laugh, are you serious????

c'mon, that is such a crock, just reading the first two paragraphs is worth it for comical relief

next you blokes will be buying turbozet's and eletric supercharges, oh and dont forget those fins to twirl your inlet air

basically it says... we use precision others just close their eyes and hope for the best... but it takes 4 paragraphs to say it

and studs vs. bolts argument... sounds o.k. at first but in practice it's just not true... for instance... whats really precisely locates your head... it's not the bolts/studs at all, its the two locating rings, the bolt/stud shanks are hardly a tight fit in in the head are they?

and every action has equal and oposite reaction.... so what the reaction to your nut turning when its pushing down on the head... the same as the one you get turning a bolt head against it

as you can see im getting passionate about this, i'd hate to see people wasting their money on a crock of #### sales pitch

studs save time over head bolts in race applications where the head is constantly removed.............how.........pffft

they are seriously clutching at straws to sell these things!!!

1200rallycar - some things for you to consider.

Studs V bolts.

All stock head bolts will have some stretch for their given hardness ratings, studs are usually of a higher quality and therefore offer less stretch, this can be an issue if you are running high compression and high quality aftermarket head gaskets on big dollar engines etc. Also a stud once fitted correctly is able to take far more accurate torque loads because thread stiction in the block threads is not an issue.
Some HP applications actually recommend pre torque of the nuts once studs are fitted then the stretch of the stud is measured with a dial indicator to give you the correct clamping force. This method takes thread stiction right out of the equation and is far more accurate.
People would not be using studs in racing application if it was no industry standard. For average street use studs are normally not necessary.
I am not about to get into an argument with anyone re this issue, just wanted to post some thoughts you might not have considered.

i never try to start agruments
just hopefully-interesting discussion

yes, i can see that in extreme high-end engines, people may want to try to remove these variables

though they are probably just swapping them for new variables, hopefully more negligable ones

one thing that i still wonder, is how can they pressume the stud doesn't turn? it would have to be torqued in to the specified torque desired or over that value, and then loc-tited into place quote firmly....wouldn't it???

which is why i was saying before that i can't see how it would take any load off the thread in the block as was suggested

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No torqueing required with a stud, just screw into the block after threads have been cleaned and add a little 242 loctite (removeable).

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I find this hard to explain in a post but here goes. If you assume the stud is loctited in place and wont turn, then it must take some of the load away from the threads in the block because the only load those threads are seeing is in stretch. With a bolt there is two forces acting at the same time because you are tightening and turning when applying torque and doing so into a softer cast iron thread (A series). The thread almost tries to "walk" up its pitch as you tighten it, two forces acting at once.
Once a stud is fitted into the block its the nut that has two forces acting apon it when torque is applied (cylinder head tightening)but it usually doesnt matter because the quality of the nut takes care of that and they are designed with this in mind. As I said hard to explain in a forum but overall studs offer lots of advantages over bolts.
Hope this helps.

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Its not the holding load that is any different with a stud vs bolt. Its the tightening load. The studs go in tight, just like a manifold stud.
The tightening load is in reference to the nut vs bolt.
During head instalation the;
Bolt has to deal with clamping load plus the shear load placed on the bolt face.
A nut also deals with exactly the same.
The difference is surface area. Surface area greatly effects tightening torque.
1 and a half inches of thread on a bolt vs 3 quarters of an inch thread on a nut.
Both torqued to exactly the same specific setting.
Head with studs will have greater clamping force than the head with bolts.

Think what grips more;
Wide or skinny tyres? Grip is not torques friend.

to give a real world example of head stud efficiency, a stock 304 holden V8 will lift heads off the block under heavy load and esp when turbocharged.

add head studs and the problem stops.

sure, the factory bolts are inefficient - but they even do this with grade 8 bolts in place. they actually BEND the thread.

100Nm of torque on a stud and 100Nm of torque on the matching nut is a damn sight more effective than 100Nm of torque on a single bolt.

They look good
I was going to use them myself but due to height restrictions with the rollcage and frame I would never have been able to get the head off !!
And now we have to raise the engine 1.5 inches there will be trouble even getting the rocker cover off now.
Maybe for the streetcar.........hmmm