it is with grille inspired by Sunny 1000

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D,

In order to stay in the same class I have to run the A12. 1300cc is the class limit. The minis are rebuilding there engines every other race. In order to beat them I'd have to tune the engine at the same level. No thanks

There is another class I can run in that would allow me to run an SR20 non turbo but the cars in that class are 10-12 seconds a lap faster. The class is led by an Austin Healy 100 which is the same weight as my car but making 180whp. Also the leading cars in this class are building engines that are rebuilt at the end of a six race season. Again no Thanks.

Vintage racing is my relaxation I don't want to turn it into a job.

Looking at the main caps one can see that 4 bolt mains could be used
specially when fitting the 88mm stroke E16 crankshaft to secure it
further for high rpm operation.
These engines and the L series were way over engineered with extra
material but the A series is heavier than the L16 by 2-3kg when
L16 is bored out to 86mm.
Interesting the A14, L16 and Ca18 bare blocks weighed just under 40kg.

The nose knows :) but 30hp + more rebuilds not good
are you allowed JDM racing specs like L14 or L16?
The L series bottom ends weigh less than L series
side by side when bored out to 85/86m.
Some other US racer dude forget his name selling parts
here for sometime put in the ga16 and said it was
a better engine for the 1200 but as A series parts
dried up and bookface we have not seen him again here.
5-6s is quite a big gap of time per lap.
90hp atw is a lot for an A series to stay reliable.
The B3 soch 8v and B6 16v on A series are common in
Aussie oval track racing they are making 140+ whp.

I've given great thought to the aero nose on my car; read I belabored it endlessly.

Realistically it's not going to make a difference on my car. Even if it raised the top speed 5 mph to 110 mph, given the time I would remain at that speed, the difference in lap time is going to be about 3/4 of a second.

I am 5-6 seconds a lap slower than the class leading Minis at every track we go to.

The long and the short of it is I need 30hp more. That isn't going to happen because that requires rebuilding the motor every 6-10hrs. The end goal on the car is 90whp; the motor will last several seasons at that level.

With all that said that nose does look cool.

Dave,
Welcome back to the 48. 👍
The nitrous is a progressive.
30% to 100% at the 60 foot.
The Solenoids chatter until they fully open. 👍

D,
No main saddles machined.
I did modified the oil cavity so that that oil is pumped into the back of the block as well as the front. Cylinder #4 was always the last to get oil and I had spun a couple of rod bearing. That problem is no more. 👍
450hp atw's should put me in the 10's. 🙂

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STP is a metal shield covering the two insulated wires


That photo is of GM coil packs and the EDIS controller, but was not my installation

between the EDIS module and the VR sensor, I used a stock Ford Aerostart VR sensor wire and connectors. I don't recall if it was STP or not




I specifically used STP on the cable between EDIS module and the ECU (MegaJolt Lite Jr). my notes says I used 10 feet of wire, because it had to go from front of engine into the cabin and I wanted to experiment with moving it around. I didn't cut the wire shorter, but never noticed any problems

I get what you are saying about insulation
I always prefer insulation than Ford's cost cutting
then again tensor rings use this approach with copper
and probably balances out noise via vortex principles.
Gets spooky but wiring is just like alchemy in complexity
I just always try and hide the stuff, it pains me even
if the bonnet hides it, its there in my mind LOL

I just found this here:
https://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm ... ks_closeup_resize_100.jpg
So it looks like at least ddgonzal is also of the just twisted pair opinion.

Y'all know a lot more than I do about the real world issues involved here. I'm an electrical engineer and I want to build everything like the signal path for an oscilloscope front end, but I bet that's goofy. Pics of the wiring diagrams for an EDIS setup show using twisted shielded pair wiring between the sensor and the control box, and same for the line that goes to the ECU that actually determines the spark advance setting. The latter one makes sense to me. The former one, eh, they're going to be within 20 cm of each other. But mostly: the existing wiring stubs on the boxes don't have STP wiring. They just have standard electrical wires, single ones at that, sticking out. I understand more than I'd like about radiated noise, and if there was any evidence Ford had made any attempt to actually shield these, I even have the wire for it. I still will, somehow, for the SAW line. But it seems just goofy to have two 10cm long single wires sticking out of the sensor, that I solder into a shielded twisted pair for 10cm, and then back into the individual wires going into the control box with some kludged together joint to the ground wire. I'm actually tempted to cut the control side short and do this the way I do at work, but, again, if Ford didn't, should I?