OK. Time to rebuild the 45 webers cause the needle and seat is sticking. Anyone done this before? Any tips on what to do and what not to do? Im hoping to get them back on by next
Sunday for the Datnet cruise or should i wait till after? Im going to get the kits on Thurs and do them over the long weekend. Im guessing it would only take a day or so to do them
both?? Any help is great cause i've never played with 45's before.

Scott
Davo

Scott I have a great book that I mail ordered from England called "How to build and power tune Weber and Dellorto DCOE & DHLA carbs" which has all the pics and instructions etc. Maybe you
could get a similar book out of the library. I know there is an Australian book that is similar that Drysdales Auto Books sell here in Qld. If you get desperate I can try and copy what may be
relative (its a fairly comprehensive book). Are you just fixing the needle and seats or do you have full rebuild kits. I can't remember if I've pulled one apart fully but very nearly have
unfortunately it was some years ago. They are not that daunting if you have pulled carbs apart before just keep everything in a order so you can put it back. The needle and seat replacement
is a piece of cake as they are mounted in the top cover.
The needle and seat are under the float obviously and it is held in by a simple pin.
I'll send a second message with some quotes from the book.

Scott-
Check to see if there is any excessive wear between the float and the pin.
Check to see if the floats have any air leaks. Shake to listen for fuel inside and immerse in fuel to check for air bubbles. This is no good of course.
The float height is set at 8mm. Weber quote several heights for different models but 8mm is average and acceptable and always useable. The height is measured with the gasket in place. The
needles have a spring loaded ball which means the needle will seal its seat but the float will keep moving. The float level is measured when the needle just contacts the seat. This is
measured with the carb top held on its side and the float facing up. If the top is tilted the needle will be seen to move out from the seated position. If the top is slowely tilted back
the needle will move in towards the seat and when it stops moving this is the point at which the distance between float and gasket is measured. Adjustment is achieved by twisting the brass
arms using long nose pliers. The droop setting is 15mm and is the distance the float droops when the top is held in what would be its installed position eg horizontal. This is controlled
by the tab at the back of the float . The float stops drooping whent he tab touches the back of the seat. This tab can be bent with pliers.
As I said if you've pulled a normal carby apart its basically the same.

Before you put them back on the car if you want to clean them up so they look like new there is a great product that I have used for a while now. It etches the alloy and takes it back to
like a new bead blasted finish. It used to be called CT12 but now goes under Blitz aluminium cleaner and is made by ChemTech (eg the CT). It is a pink liquid with the consistancy of thin oil
and costs $10 for a 1 litre bottle. It goes a long way too. It says to water down in the directions but I use it straight just be careful near thin brass. Jets are usually OK just soak for a
couple of minutes. I put a cupful in a big enough container eg icecream container. I sit the item in it and keep brushing it over for up to ten minutes until you see the thing back to bare
alloy. A little scrubbing with a toothbrush, scourer also helps stubborn stains. Just don't get it on your hands for too long. If I am scrubbing with a scourer I use kitchen gloves. If you
want to polish something it doesn't eat into it that much that you can't still polish it easily either. I guarantee you they will come up like new. It great for manifolds etc and once it is
clean you can just wash it in a mild solution of the stuff periodically. You can get the stuff from Autobarn, Repco etc and is cheaper in a 5 litre container also. I am going to get the 5
litre and make up a bath to dip my heads into. It looks reuseable to a degree.

Just wondering if anyone has done this conversion before or does anyone have any ideas,hints or tips on fitting a L18 into a 1200 and which is the best 5-speed to use
in terms of fitment.
Thanks!!

I'vh heard of people putting in L20B's. You'll want the shorter L-series trans
(early 200SX or truck).

Dave Lum
www.datsuns.com

Hello Datsohollics and 1200 fans,
Years ago, my brother and I stuffed an L20B into a 1200 sedan....the beginnings of our 411 hp (dynoed) 31 lbs. of boost, 1/4 mile drag Datsun. Knowing we were going to use a Corvette
crossflow radiator, and thus the engine would sit a little farther into the engine bay, and knowing we were also going to use a Z 5 speed tranny with its larger bell housing, we cut
the firewall and built a new tranny tunnel. While we were at it, we also tubbed the rear and put in a huge Ford 9 inch rear end with 5:17 gears, too.
I believe it is possible to put in an L series motor without cutting up the bodywork as we did, though, but at the time, this how we did it.
This same 1200 is alive today but now belongs to Ron Faulk who is well known for this wheel-standing, now 6 cylinder turbo powered car.

See Ya.....John Wayland

Ron Folck - I've talked to him! Met him when he was dragging the car a few years ago (introduced myself, had to see who was piloting that dan fast 1200!). I still swap e-mail with
him from time to time.

PLEASE do scheck out his site at http://www.folckusa.com/

Dave Lum
www.datsuns.com

Hey Scott, if it takes you more than an hour to rebuild a carb, you have lost parts and spent too much time looking for them. LOL Those carbs are very simple, if they
aren't too sludged or corroded up, they rebuild quickly. Usually when the needle sticks, it needs cleaning and a simple adjustment.

Mareo

The conversion is straight forward if you have the right car to start with. The prefered model is the auto trans model as the tunnel is way bigger. I doubt you will fit any of the L series
gearboxes neatly into a manual trans shell. In Japan B110s were sold with 1400cc L series in them and they were called an Excellent. The nose and grille were different and they had unique
tail lights, oh and they were bloody ugly as well. I suspect that the Excellent had the auto floorpan. The fitment of the L series lead to the LZ/FZ twin cam being fitted and homologated for
racing in Japan. This to me is the ultimate derivitive of the B110 family... I would give my left nut for one of those factory race cars. In the "more engines folder" I've added a couple of
pics of the twin cam.