Hey all,
a quick note to gauge any interest in this swap? I am currently undertaking the next project racecar and have the donor L20 and 5 speed dummied up in the car. It looks like a snug but achievable fit and it lloks like we may be able to use the 1200 crossmember. Do the fellow members want me to keep track of the conversion for tech section ?? I am not one to try and reinvent the wheel, so I will try to keep the changes to a minimum and use as little exotica as possible I know L20 is a little "low tech" for some but 'low $$' is my attraction
Any feedback welcome.
Cheers

I've written up an article for the tech section (with the help of a few other people who have also done the L series conversion), but when i pm'd some people to get it in the tech section, i got no response...

Its due to go up in the datnet tech section soon. If you need it sooner, i can email it to ya.




more pics in my album.

Hey dazza just wondering what its like to drive with the l20b. I dont think youve ever told us or if you did I missed it. I bet it pulls like a steam train. And burnouts. I bet its good at that too But in actual speed difference what it is like?

Btw good job. Looks snug in between the 1200 strut towers.

uh... well.. I haven't driven it on the road yet...
I resprayed it over the end of year break, and its about 99% complete now... just waiting for some one to come and put my windscreen in.

First drive, on and around the front lawn... I kept thinking crap, this thing has flat spots, but i'm sure it was tuned right...

come around for lap 2 and there's all these trenches in the front lawn.
oops... sorry dad...

Yeah i tihnk a documentation would be a great idea beacause the Lseries is a great cheap Hosrepower set up.

you definitely can do it with the 1200 x-member, but it does get squeezy with the tall L20 block

I have a bit of experience with building L series engines, and would be happy to help out with info if/when you want it. Also have some experience with a few of the L series boxes and their ratios.

or you could save yourself alot of trouble and buy this:
Craig's 1200 sedan with worked L18, adjustable suspension etc

Thanks Harry If I had the cash I would!
Thanks for the responses - as I said, not wanting to re-invent the wheel but trying to avoid the plasma spanner and force inducer so that we can have a relatively easy transition. The height issue is eased a little by spacing the crossmember down (no, not with washers - I own a fabrication business) and if the steering geometry and castor rods work out (they should) we will be a long way to the finished product.
ALSO
anyone coming to Oran Park on Sunday for the supersprint??
Converted? , Datman?
Cheers

Quote:

won't this stuff up your camber???

Quote:

I think you need to pay more attention to the front sway bar. The L20b oil pump hangs quite low in that area. It probably needs packing out by 20mm when you don't modify the cross member.

I got my L20 powered 1200 coupe up and running.
I took it down to Phillip Island for the first round of the local club series in Victoria about a month ago.
Its currently running a std 2L with twin dellortos, through a stanza 5spd to a 3.9(I think) open ute diff.
It needs a different cam and some head work to let it rev a bit more and the suspension needs some work. Lots of body roll currently and lifting of wheels over the top of Lukey heights. Great fun though.

Hey guys,
thanks for the comments! Camber is not too much of an issue as the pivot points remain constant, the only movement will be relative to strut top (minor) and castor bar. Swaybar will be addressed by either machining a lowering block or having a new bar made to the shape I need. The new adjustable bar Benny got for me may even fit with all the extra clearances he designed I'll post some pics of the interesting bits anyway just for comment. Thanks guys.
Cheers