Errrnstak, I am not sure of which carb you have. My stock carb screwed up once and the power valve was loose. I had to disassemble the whole carb to tighten it. If you have brown
on your spark plugs, it means the octane is too high. Octane has to be matched to the compression ratio to get optimum performance. Too high of octane means that the gasoline is
still burning as it exit the cylinder. Too low octane explodes before the piston reaches BDC causing detonation.

I have just stripped the interior of the dash pad, metal dash part, wiring, heater, and everything else except the steering column.
I have found that in the corner under the dash where the firewall meets the inside panels and the top piece, the seal that the factory puts under there was a bit flakey. So I scraped it off
with a screwdriver to find that the firewall has indeed rusted (at least at the corner). It IS however minor as the metal is still strong and so far I haven't been able to ram the
screwdriver through the firewall.
Does anyone know how to fix this minor rust area(s) (it's happened on both driver and passenger sides)? I am worried that if I just paint over it after applying KILL-RUST (or similar) that
the paint will flake because of the water still making rust and I will be back at the start again!
Does anyone know how the water gets to the firewall area and how to stop it getting down to the already affected area?
PLEASE HELP ME!! I DONT WANT MY CAR TO RUST! and I want to fix this problem once and for all!

Thanks, Simon

yeah rust suks, what i would do is sand the crap out of the area until theres as little or not rust whats so ever then id use my rust coverter as directed on the can, then id mask off the area
and prime it with light even coats ,put your car glass of what ever to cover any indentations and sand gradually getting to lighter and lighter grades of sandpaper adding smallamounts of bog
asmay be required to fill any indentations. id get to a realy light grade of wet and dry ensuring the repair is flat then put on some even coats of primer wet and dry that, maybee use a
guidecoat and make shaw its flat and smooth ,then get someone like ardens to supply a match of paint in a spray can do afew light coats of that, then leave that for afew weeks to harden
properly before sanding abit if you have orange peel with a exteemly light wet n dry smoothing of the paint then cut with tcut and polish. or i guess being in that kind of area in the car you
could cut out alot of those steps but if you wanted to practise spray painting it would be a good place to start . im not a professional panel beater so it would be cool to hear some other
ways of fixing the problem (maybee even the right way if mine is not prefered. i realy do hope this has helped if only abit. sorry about the length of this one guys!!!!

I am using a GX setup: Hitachi SU carbs "flat tops" I got the car running really good, I took the carbs apart and oiled/cleaned them really well. BUT, it still misfires and
pings above 6000 rpm, any more ideas?

In the dark, look at your disstributor cap and wires. It is best to put the brakes on and rev the motor up as much as possible with as much breaking as possible to put a load on the motor.
Watch for spark leaks. My brother's Olds would start and run properly but put a load on it and it missed so bad that it would stall out. One plug boot was not down all of the way and the
spark was leaking to groung. That made the next two cylinders misfire also. Aren't the two flat top carbs a little large for the engine? I had one of the same carbs (from a 260Z) mounted
onto a turbocharger on an A14 motor in my 1200. Those were not too bad of carbs, The problem in them was that the whole intake system was screwed.
If a plug boot is not seated properly a spark could give nightmares. or a cracked wire will lose spark also. Has your timing been checked for proper settings?

today i went and saw ARDERNS that paint place in moonah asking for advice.
i found that the water causing the rust was coming from the air vent scoops (in front of the window). i reckon the drain hole got clogged and water built up inside for a while causing it
to rust away to the inside.
the guys at arderns said to flush it through or try and paintbrush the area with rust converter then to apply some anti-rust protector. this would form a seal and would hopefully stop
the water leaking through to the inside.
hope i can fix it but i have to wait a while as my car is going down the road to get its panels straightend.
thanks to everyone for their help and advice, i hopefully can fix my water leak problems once and for all!
Simon

the three hundred dollar quote that you said about earlier sounded quite resonable even though i havnt actually seen the damage to the front. My car does need some finishing off in
some areas, did the same people respray your car before?? and would you recomend there work that they have done 4u . its so hard to find a panel beater who wont ry and take
advantage of you because your young and doing up a car. would it be superfinish,furgusons or one of the others on that rd. any feed back would be appreciated

Hi Simon - if you are serious about solving the water leak problems then you need to weld panel steel over the offending areas. Most 1200 coupes I've checked have a corrosion problem in
the front scuttle area - especially at the factory join where the sealer is. With the dash out it's not too big a job -anyone with a mig can do it. It took 28 years to rust out so a
patch should last as long again!! Do anything else and it'll be leaking again really quickly and you will have wasted your money.

Two flat top carbs are perfect for my A15. They're not the same as the Z's carbs though. I guess these kind were only brought in on 1800 SSS motors from 510's, 610's, and 710's. They have
no smog/emissions stuff on them, and they're supposedly identical to Roadster 1600 SU's except the dome vs. flat top. The intake is a standard GX intake. What's funny is, my dad and I both
bought these "GX Setups" and the only thing the same is the intake. His SU's are tiny dome tops, I think we measured them at about 34 mm, and his linkage is all different too. I never knew
they made SU's smaller than 38 mm, I don't know what his carbs are off of.

I'll try the night time trick tonight and see what happens. I remember looking at my engine before at night time and watching the plugs fire, it is definitely cool to watch! Never thought
about that before though, thanks for the advice. Wish me luck!

-Andy

Those tiny SUs are probably the same as MG Midget ones which are 1 1/4 inch (just under 32mm). They are a bit small even on a 1275 MG motor so I would have though the 38s would
be a better choice. That is the size of SSS carbs here in the UK.

Eddie