i am looking at putting a ca18det in my 1200 coupe. wat sort of money would i be looking at to get an engine of the sort and where can ig et one? wat about a ca16 are they any good? would they be a cheaper option than the 18? does anybody know of a good suspension specialist in brisbane? thanx any help would be good

check out "zoom" magazine for jap importers bringing in half-cuts, usually some in QLD, usually cheapest there too, i think they are as cheap as $1800

CA16 and CA20s weren't turbo'ed.

Turbo CA18's came in:
1. CA18ET (single cam)
2. CA18DET RWD (no intercooler) spark plug leads.
3. CA18DET FWD (spark leads)
4. CA18DET 4WD spark leads top mount intercooler like GTiR SR20DET.
5. CA18DET S13 RWD (intercooler) + coilpack ignition.

You only really want the S13 Silvia intercooled CA18DET with the 4x coils on top of spark plug config. They were the highest rated engine, and I think the best. Some CA18DETs, also had a heatsink attached to the top of the Oil filter bracket. early ones didn't.

If the cost of the engine is a problem, you probably shouldn't be considering the conversion. A typical conversion of a stock motor will cost (all up) ~AU$5000-$15000. It'll cost about $3500 for someone else to install and wire it. This doesn't include brakes and diff modifications.

People who've done it either have really good mates who do a lot of work for them, or they know enough to do it themselves. It's not economically viable to pay someone else to do it. The long term maintenance costs would mean buying an S13 Silvia would be a better choice.

If you must do it to your datto, then the cheapest option would be wait and buy someone elses unfinished project. There's a few advertised every month. Take advantage of someone elses lack of patience/savings.

Cheers,
Chris

what chris says is right, price can vary substantially depending on how much you can do yourself and how much upgrading you want to do. i posted some details on conversion costs under "new guy" if you want some idea.



kev

just a word of warning when youre sourcing a motor make sure u check it from top to bottom dont just pick up a pack and expect it to be in great nick like they tell u i just got one and the rings are gone and supposedly its my fault coz i put an mt8 on it ...theres all sorts of things that can void a warranty so be careful.... oh also if anyone wants to know where i bought the motor from in sydney so u dont get ripped off pm me id be glad to tell you :D

datto_dave, you could email Steve about the conversion sdraheim@ozemail.com.au He's the current Qld Improved Production Champ for over 3000cc with one of these engines, and certainly has all the knowledge and skills to help you out.

There are a few really good suspension specialists in Brisbane, I'd recommend Fulcrum at Moorooka 3892 9000. Ask for Darren and tell him that Harry sent you. He has been very helpful with my 1200 coupe and some others I know of.

Quote:

Better still, buy a cheap engine, making sure you get all the parts you need and then rebuild it, most engines now are over 100,000k's and are due for a freshen up. Import engines are too much of a lucky dip to just throw straight in i reckon.

I bought my ca18det complete with all the needed hang on bits plus it came with a ca bell housing for $1100, and it is garanteed to be a good runner.
He was aware that I was going to put an after market computer in it.
He also was very helpfull.
I got mine from
. Central Vic Auto Parts 7980 GV Highway Kialla(Shepparton),
Vic 3631 Telephone 03 5823 1911
Great mob!!
I also got my cross member from MAD DAT motorsport, it cost $350, wasnt cheep but it is a bolt in thing and comes powder coated
.
The only other hurdle I have had to over come is the trans tunnel, the manual gearbox I am running is a 240k box and although it fitted in the manual trans tunnel it was very tight, so I have just finished cutting out the manual tunnel and fitted an auto tunnel.
Tonight I fitted the engine back in and there is heaps of room around the gearbox now its great.
The next thing I have to tackel is the clutch
I have been looking and there is not much space to fit the master cyl.
Has any one else had this problem?? and how did they over come it??

The hydrualic clutch conversion is a major pain in the ass Ive done it three times now first in the 13B Jport 1200 ute with supra5 speed :) then in my Ca18det 1200 coupe and last again a ca18 conversion for micheal into his 1200 coupe. Best bet is to pull you brake master cylinder off and drill a hole beside it pretty close the same size so bot the clutch and brake master cylinder can be done up and not hit each other then the hard part of modifying the pedal so the rod ataches to teh piedal and pushes at the right angle. (pain in the ass) under the dash I take the seats ect out so you can lie under there with a lead ligth and sort of see what your doing.
Cheers Andrew

IF YOUR NOT DRIFTING YOUR NOT GOING FAST ENOUGH

Thanx Andrew,
origionally I was running a 120y booster but I found after fitting it there was not much difference in breaking.
There is also no room for the clutch master cyl and its getting pritty cluttered in that area as it is,inlet manifold, brakes, clutch starter and a bit of wireing all in the same area.
One other question while Im going, what suggestions would you have for a fuel pump to get to the surg tank I have fitted a holley blue but its way too noisy, Ive tryed to insulate it but I dont like it any ideas??
I believe you run a red, are they any quieter?