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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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just loop the harnesses on that bar. no bolts is the best way to mount the harness

Posted on: 2007/8/20 7:33
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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listen to the man .......
straight on the bar is the best and safest way

Posted on: 2007/8/20 7:59
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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Yes, i agree. Alot of the under two litre guys mount the top half of the harness to the cage cross bar. After seeing a fellow racer jammed under the dash after an accedent due to the fact the belts were mounted to the back of the cage (above the wheel arch) and the car going backwards into the wall. This allowed the belt to slacken off due to the back of the car/cage being pushed in due to the force.
One other thing Ianey is to have the crossover bar 1 or so inches above the hight of your sholder position when in the seating position. This will stop your spine from being crushed as under inpact the force of the belts are not pulling down.
wrxsuk wrote:
listen to the man .......
straight on the bar is the best and safest way

Posted on: 2007/8/20 8:26
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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you're actually not permitted to have the shoulder straps mounted higher than your shoulders.

Recommended range is between horizontal and 10deg below horizontal. permitted to be up to 40deg below horizontal.

Posted on: 2007/8/20 8:42
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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Horizontal sounds right in regards to the crossbar. The 10deg to 40deg is to do with the belts being mounted to the floor or rear of the cage. I got my info from Mr Brown himself as in (Brown and Davis) a few years ago, he has seen many a race seat with belts inbedded/ripped downwards from the seat cut outs due to the belts going straight from the seat to the floor mounts and not over a crossover bar at the correct hight.

Posted on: 2007/8/20 8:57
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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Hmm thanks for that info guys!

The crossbar is about an inch below where the shoulder straps will come out, originally designed so that it would put tention on the bar before going to the floor.

I will have to have a look to see if I can mount my straps to the bar. Although, I was reading a discussion that said that it was good to have them mounted a little bit back to allow some stretch (a little) to lessen the deceleration and therefore force on your body. What do you guys reckon about that?

Joe, I will give you a call tomorrow night.

Cheers, Ian

Posted on: 2007/8/20 20:24
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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when you are ready champ .....

just out of intrest who did you buy the dato from

Posted on: 2007/8/20 20:35
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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No worries,

I bought it from LAGWAGON (Leigh) from Melb (but the car was at Phillip Island).

cheers, Ian

Posted on: 2007/8/20 20:41
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Ian mount the belts to the bar behind the seat. A racer buddy broke a spindle in his RX3 and walloped a concrete barrier at 80 , at about a 30 degree angle glancing blow, his belts strecthed so far his helmet nearly hit the steering wheel.....the belts were mounted to the bar behind the seat..........they strech plenty. (I was on track directly behind him) I would also be remiss if I wasn't a safety nag. Make sure you buy a good suit and FULL face helmet and a HANS device, oh and get another diagonal in the rear hoop..............the goal here is to be standing outside the car crying about it being totalled vs people standing outside yer casket crying...............it sounds obvious but racing is dangerous as hell..............fun as hell too but still don't mess abut on the gear.

OK with the nag part over.....................the mild engine will be fine , get the suspension dialed then worry about the motor last. I've had the near stock GX in mine for waaaaay to long but it's still fun after 17 years.

Good luck mate and great pictures

Tom

Posted on: 2007/8/20 20:57
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Re: Ian's KB10 race car build
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I agree with Tom,keep the belt as short as possible and close to your shoulder height.What a few of the guys don't remember is how short the 1000's are once you get a race seat in(another mission as they are so bloody narrow)i assume you are running back braces to the top of the rear wheel arches,you can run the belt bar between these,and if you put a forward bend in this bar before welding you will end up with about 300-400mm of belt.I found this the best compromise inside the matchbox.

Also agree,get the handling and brakes sorted first,H.P. can come any time,looking good,Cheers Bert

Posted on: 2007/8/21 4:34
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