Sucks a bit that you were there for some instruction - but weren't able to get it....

I remember taking my skyline down to Phillip Island for the first time (years ago) - and the instructor blew up my engine! Signed the liability form so had no recourse....you just suck it up I guess.

is the ca powered 1200 a race car or road car ?

yeah it's actually a good deal even if you aren't after the instruction. Particularly if you're just getting into motorsport because they don't ask you to have cams licenses or club membership.

It cost $225 for the day, there was only about 35 cars there in 3 groups going out in 20 minute sessions. Each group had 5 sessions I think and there was also a passenger session. Plus you can get instruction if you like for free!


It's registered and doesn't have a cage but is more of a race car. I rarely drive it on the street.

yeah that was crap news... so is the head off yet?

Two things:

First on the head gasket, leave the intake and exhaust on it. Just undue the head pipe. Ages back when I worked at a Toyota dealership we just undid the head pipe and hoses, then depending on the engine you just flop the head to one side, clean the surfaces make sure nothings warped and bolt it back together. Push rod motors could be done in 45 minutes or less with a twin cam taking about 1.5 hrs. Never had any comebacks.

Secondly having instructed at everything from track days to manufacturer events good instructors aren't likely to go flat out in your car.............most of the time I drive student's cars around in third gear and never bother to shift. 95% of people new to track driving come roaring up to a corner stand the car on the nose, then pop off the brakes, snap the steering in, jab the throttle on causing the front end to bounce up & down but because the car is drifting round on the tires they're convinced it can't go any faster. Not being egotistical but even folks who are fairly smooth are surprised at how delicate you need to be picking up the throttle and how painfully slow you wind in the steering. Instruction / coaching is worth every penny, most F3 & GP2 drivers have driver coaches and those kids are light years ahead of 99% of most racers. An instructors job is to show the student how to go faster in their car not how fast the car can go. I know one driver who is reasonable fast but will never be hired as an instructor as he coaches folks right off the road.......yikes. I tell anyone new to the track to grab an instuctor. Last September I had a student who I rode with for 3 laps and told him to pull in (he thought he did something wrong), his lines were great he just needed some seat time. Towards the end of the day I rode with him again getting him to fine tune his throttle steering and trail braking. The best part is the guy had never been to a track, his buddy talked him into going. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the macho hairy chested guys that I've ended up piling them into my 85HP coupe and driving 90% before they realized that perhaps they aren't the next F1 phenom. (something about a 85HP Datsun exiting a corner 10 MPH faster than a 700HP Viper tends to be an ego check)So in my usual short story long; regardless of competence level instructors are a good thing. One note; at some of the Manufacturer events scarring the poo out passengers seems to be part of what you get paid for and what students want...........I will confess it's fun to be told to drive the wheels off a car that you don't have to pay for the tires. (If you go off you will get fired)


Now as for showing up and having problems: On my 125GP bike we once drove 4hrs unloaded and I got 1/2 lap before the fuel tank split, then there was the time the sports racer grenaded an engine on lap three or the head gasket leak on my 1200 (my fault, used a cheapo gasket) that went 3 sessions before it pressurized the cooling system...........besides doing 10 laps beats sitting at home having done 0 laps.

Tom

my car could be stuck on a track as soon as it has a wheel alignment....then i would find out all the things wrong with it

being in the "uni student with lots of time and no money" pile doesnt really help either

Rallytwit

All the advice I get is that really should get the head skimmed before it goes back on. When you say check for warping, how much warping is too much and what tool would you use to check it?

I am leaning towards the whole head reco but am a little bit tempted by the quick fix....

straight edge and a feeler gauge, acceptable amount of warpage should be in the silvia workshop manual.

If it turns out to be a small leak as thought then as Cheater said just get a straight edge and check it with a feeler gauge - the manual will have the proper spec.

I've done this on a couple of 210's , 3 A12's and a couple of Toyota 20R's and 3TC's

Tom