heya's,

I been thinking and reading about cold air induction. I'm gonna try and put it on my datto 1200. My car has a little (well, about 4"x4") hole in the front, just before the grill. Whats
this for anyways? there's one on each side?

Anyway, i'm gonna hook up a low thermal tube to the hole, and connect the other end up to the top of my new chrome air filter caseing. I'm still working out how to make an air filter in
the tube, but it shouldnt be hard.

That way, when the car gets rolling, cold air will be rushing through the tube and down into the carbie. Good idea? any suggestions to make my idea better? The old air filter will stay
exactly where it is.
If your confused already, i'll try and make the system up over the weekend, and take some pics of it so you can all see. And i'll let you know the performace difference as well =)

cya

Nah it's not really a good idea. Cold air induction can be worth doing if you're turboed or restricted for under bonnet space with your fuel injected car. The gains normally come with
freeing up restrictions via pod and filter mods and because cooler induction air lessens the chance of pre-ignition. You are proposing using two filters and ramming air down a carby
throat. That is a backward step because of the added restriction and standard carbs don't cope well with swirling air being forced down their throats. You are better to use an air cleaner
housing that is open on the sides with a good quality filter - the carb will suck what it needs to perform.

Cold air will also cause moisture in the air to freeze up on your carb like frost in an old refrigerator and that will shut you down until it thaws. That's not much of a problem where
the temps stay moderate. Inducted air needs to be calabrated with the valve overlap timing to get the most effects. Cold air kills gas milage also. I am not trying to dissuade you, just
pointing out things to consider. Ram air does work.

Hey all. I set the valves on my Datsun to .018" on both intake and exhaust. This is what my cam shop recommended with the cam they sold me. It is best on the Datsun to always adjust to the
HOT settings when you can, cause the engine runs hot when you drive it so you want the right setting for when the engine is warmed up. Like someone said earlier, only use the cold settings as
a basis after you've rebuilt the engine or taken it apart or whatever, just to get you "in the ballpark" Also, to get the most accurate, make sure your car is warmed up really well, and the
faster you can get your rocker cover off and the lashes set, the more accurate your valve lash settings will be.

-Andy

On the subject of hot valve adjustments Chris Lott has developed a system that allows you to adjust without removing the cover. He reckons it is the ultimate in achieving accurate hot
settings. He is being a little shy on the details but given his past development on rocker covers anything is possible. He won't tell me the specifics until I apologise for something I
said about his Nana. Does any one else know how he has done it?

I heard a rumour that Chris Lott is using solenoids, hooked up to a computer, and can adjust them whilst driving.The in-dash mounted computer (Rocker 3D) also monitors rocker
cover heat sink temp , and is colour coded, with a lovely velvet trim.
Linc.

ok guys ill tell all, its called the "Close your curtins your oil stinks" system and incorperates a custom perspex rocker cover with carbon fiber inserts for show, rubber dome caps above
each tappet adjuster screw allow screw driver access while a seperate strip guage is posistioned near each rocker and operated by solenoids run off their own seperate battery to ensure
consistant measurements, i have been working closely with Link Electrosystems Ltd and developed in my spare time a "Prototype Tappet Adjustment System Which Allows Remote Adjustment While
Looking Through A Perspex Rocker Cover Management System" or "PTASWARAWLTAPRCMS' for short, although when it reaches prouduction, which im sure it will, it will be called Datsunlink.
also on the ideas board is an oxy acetylene engine temp simulator, where a 5mx5mx3m concrete kiln is used and you simply put on a heat proof suit and adjust your tappets at will. childs
play really.
cher boys too much go hard, man my datto is going so hard! it is all good!
choice from chris.

i run a similar sustem to what you described, but only in the summer, as winter leads to cold affecting the running ect.
i notice lower temperature readings when driving at 6000rpm for extended time during the summer heat with the outside air flowing in the direction of the filter, teretonga is right, all
the extra swirling is not good for a carbureted engine, as it will tend to lean out the mixture, my engine pinked like a pink thing till i got it all sorted, which was a real hassle, as
you can only tune standing stationary, and the extra air affects it when its drivin.
i also have a air box from the top of the carb from a C20 van, it will take a K&N or similar pod filter on the intake, which would be the go, anyone tried this? do you want it? instead of
reducing power like a straight pod on the carb does, it has its own air box, youll know what i mean if you see one.
yeah, as far as the cold air induction goes its good if the air flows around the filter, but not good if it gets ramed in.
sweet!
i should really post some photos of my coupe eh, after this weekend i promise.
cher cher.
table table.
choice choice jolly good jolly good choice.
from chris.

Guys are you really serious when you say cold air is no good. Come on now!!!! Motorbikes have been using ram air with carbies for a couple of years now to good effect. Granted they are
designed that way from the outset. It is never good for performance to be sucking hot air which would be the case with an open sided air filter.
There are a few options to solve this and you are on the right track. Why don't you use the original air filter and casing and hook up the cold air feed to the snout of that. Don't actually
mount your hose feed directly at the front so the air is rammed in however. Mount it facing down (as long as it won't suck water eg puddle). If you have to mount it in a way that it will get a
ram air effect then drill several holes around the casing of the air cleaner so that excess pressure does not build up. Even have your feed across the other side of the motor in the engine bay
somewhere just don't let it suck air from around the exhaust side.
I would doubt there is anywhere in Australia where condensation freezing in the carb would be a problem and a few water droplets won't hurt combustion either.
But lets face it, at the end of the day you are hardly going to feel much of a performance gain on a stock 1200 with a stock carb anyway. While you are at it fabricate a bigger heat shield
between the carby and the exhaust so it blocks the exhaust completely from the carby and disable any heating of the inlet manifold (unless you live in the snow).
But what ever you do Teretonga is right don't use any extra filtration. Use one or the other preferably the original. Putting an aftermarket filter on teh stock carby may seem like a
performance gain but I'd nearly bet you it was an illusion created by the increased noise. Not that that's a bad thing.

for correct combustion fuel to air ratio you need to have the intake manifold as hot as you can get it, the hotter the better it atmosises the fuel in the mixture which
equals more power and better fuel ratio, why else do you think that most engines have water jackets in the manifold?