No because vacuum is too high at idle.

so how could i get it to work? where can i plug it in? or could i put a restrictor in so there isnt alot of vacuum? Just trying to think of how to fix the problem with major work

or just do like every one else and get a series 2 dizzy regraphed and get rid of the vac advance on it

how..........please inform!!

give it and your cam specs to an ignition specialist. and let them do it

forget who did mine, has a sticker on it saying who they are

dont know who would do it in perth. anybody got any ideas?

dont think vac advance will fix your problem
only used under light load,give better fuel economy in most dizzys some with vac retard
tommo

so does anybody know of where i could get an electronic dizzy remapped?

Best to phone a good mechanic who deals with older performance cars (carb, mgs etc.), get them to recommend someone or they might have the equipment to do the work themselves.

OK, here's the deal
The series 2 Bluebird was the last with the L series engine & the only one with electronic ignition.
If you have any half way decent wreckers you can source one from there but remember that there were two distributors according to my bulletin on the release of the new Series 2 car. The difference was that one was for manual trans cars & the other was for auto's.
A study of my parts book revealed that the only difference was in the vacuum canister & nothing else.
The distributor bodies had different Bosch part numbers but interestingly, I have owned about 10 of these & all of them had the Auto part number despite the fact that I removed most of them from manual trans cars.

OK, having said all that, you can not run vacuum advance because of two reasons.
1. There is no ported vacuum fitting on the Weber carb to attach the vacuum line to.
2. With dual Webers you will be lucky to raise enough vacuum to suck a fizzy drink up a straw anyway.

By all means fit an electronic ignition, but make sure you get the coil that goes with it, then get the whole thing properly tuned, preferably on a dyno so that the proper advance curve can be configured into your distributor as well as doing any adjustments that are needed to the carb tune.

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but for street use, dual Webers suck, but they don't suck much vacuum in the manifold. They are really designed for competition use.

P.S. There is no such thing as vacuum retard. Supercharged engines should use boost retard though.