didn't wanna go down the same ca/sr route that everyone else does. also lack of strong narrow axles ment i didn't wanna go turbo. engine is a 1800cc vvt 7000rpm 150bhp. mx5, miata, enous?

Yes, the Mazda B piston engine is a favorite engine for Datsun 1200 in South Africa.

Powerful for its size and weight. There are photos of wheelie-pulling examples in our photo album.

I have three set of springs for my coupe, I belive the set that is in it are 200lb, I'm using the softest ones and they work well with the A series engine and 185/60 13 DOT race tires. For pure slicks they might be to soft but I tend to run cars softer than most. I'm willing to give up that instnt feed back stiff bars/springs/dampers give for a little more grip.

Tom

Basically down here in Cape Town (The Mother City), South Africa we only have one shop that sells racing springs, visited the owner yesterday.

Asked about springs he recommended starting at 400lbs.

He sells these springs in increments of 50lbs and there free length is 200mm.

From what I have gathered on this site is that for my Gymkhana racing I will need between 200-250lbs.

Could it be that there measuring equipment is crap or just someone that has it completely wrong?

Ordered a set of Monroe Golf Rabbit Gas Inserts, just hope there damping rate will be good for these springs.

@racetech
Please give me all the possible details of this coilover setup you are making. I can get a bolt in kit made up consisting of Koni shocks for R5000 in Jo'burg.
I would also say rather go 200lbs and take it from there. Are you going to make mods at the back aswell? My mind is telling me that it is going to play around with your handling if you make it stiff at the front and leave it soft at the back.

My opinion is to start at 200lbs with an A series.

I have a CA powered ute with coilovers. I started at 275lbs, then tried 250lbs and finally settled with 225lbs springs. I prefer a slightly softer set up than some people but it works for me. As has been mentioned earlier if the tyres are skipping off the bitumen grip is compromised.

Regards Matty

Ok here goes:

Threaded Tubes: R720 - (The Oval Racing Shop - Johannesburg)
Monroe Golf Rabbit Gas Inserts - E3002: R 1040 - (Ordered thru Midas from Tenneco)
Starting with 200 lbs Springs 200mm Free Length: R640 (G & A Promotions - Parow)
Lazer Cut a few washers and coil over spanners: R180

R2580 ($405 Aus +-) without paint and hard work - not to bad, I reckon.

Threaded Tubes will be electro plated, otherwise the buggers start to rust. Cut a piece out of the original strut tube, retain the threaded part were the nut that hold the shock in place, weld together to accommodate the shorter shock.

Place Threaded Tube over strut tube, weld in place.

In a nutshell that is it. After all of this, I'll be able to utilize my camber/castor plates to there full potential. Have been driving around with them for more than 5weeks now, no issues.

I have a extra leaf in my pack in the rear, to hard at the back, unloading the inner wheel on cornering way to easy, because of stiffness on a open diff. Will be taking the extra one out and another one for now, also adjusting the shocks to soft. I want this thing to be super soft in the rear. Also replacing all rear bushes except shock bushes with decent race spec Polyurethane pieces, need to get rid of all unnecessary play. Not the soft crap that is just a OEM replacement. Maybe I'll get rid of some tramp to.

I have also scrapped my idea of a rear anti roll bar for now.

What we have gathered; setup wise for gymkhana racing with RWD vehicles: Stiff as hell in front, soft at the back.

Wow, that is not a bad price. The stuff you got from Jo'burg, does the price include the courier/postage to your side? My a$$ is now really itching. I have so many plans but the funds are a bit scarse. Something else, those rear poly bushes. How much did they cost you. If you don't mind, when your setup is fully operational, I might be calling you when I start with mine to get advice from you on what to do where. Mu current front suspention is a 2005 Nissan 1400 bakkies full front end.
My father-in-law has 30 years welding experience, so welding it strong won't be a problem. Please keep me updated on your progress with this stuff.

1200GXman, nice front end, already a huge improvement, especially on the brake side of things. That is one of the other reasons why I'll be making my own coil-overs.

My ute is sorted on the brake side of things for know:
Front: Nissan Sentra 160SI Vented discs and calipers
Rear: VW City Golf front solid Discs and MK2 Golf GTI rear Calipers.

I would just like to mention, what a crap load of work to custom fit these items.
You get real confidence when you start braking the vehicle.

Bushes:
Rear Shackle: R14 each
Front Bush on Leaf: R24 each
Was like R200 for the 12 bushes.

Fark Poly bushes was a nightmare, been waiting a month, at last Windsor Garage sorted me out. There supplier is a company called Wheeltech in Port Elizabeth. They did not have the front leaf bush, gave them a sample and they custom made it, luckily they added it to there product range, one thing that would be easier for the next datto fan.

Now the next problem starts, they only have Idler Arm and Castor Rod bushes for the front, I'll need to send samples of the rest to get it made up, hopefully they will add that to the product range to.

As the parts arrive, I'll take some pics.

Budget what a crap thing, it is the reason why I'll only be able to afford the spring at the end of the month, then I'll be able to finish these coil overs.

Thats reminds me I must go and pick up the extra set they sent as stock. Thanx