Will do Andrew, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't make alot more power than my current L18 motor, and save me 20 odd kg at the same time (in motor and box)

Hopefully the T3 isn't too big and laggie, but it should have no shortage of top end anyway! apparently you can fit T25 exhaust housings and turbines which would help response if it needs it.

gee it looks simple compared to mine (tt blow through) but yeah i prefer the blow through setup/design, should be alot of fun

yeah, should be a heap of fun. both in fiddling with the setup and driving it! draw through is a simpler system, so that's to my advantage. I'll probably end up running water injection to help control detonation in our hot climate - that's the one big advantage of the blow through setup - intercooling...

btw rallycar, I've heard of Jaycar kits to control ignition timing, but don't know any real specifics about them - should be worth looking into though for on boost retard while retaining ignition advance at low rpm to help driveability and response.

could be interesting to compare performance figures of the two systems, like bhp and 1/4mile times - but then again I'll probably never get around to going to the drag strip. I'm more interested in my times at MtCotton and Morgan Park. But I'll definitely be going back to the same dyno I had the L18 on as soon as I've got it up and running.

Just not sure if I try and rush it in before the next event 4 weeks away, or wait till after the last few events of the year. I'm really keen to drop it in and see how it goes, and I've already lost the Qld SuperSprint Series where I'm stuck firmly in 2nd place, so there's nothing to loose there, but I'm hesitant to risk Noosa Hillclimb and Bathurst Speed Weekend to an unknown quantity.

decisions decisions... nah bugger it - it's going in now!

mate from my experience with this setup, your taking a risk, but i would say ive had a bit of bad luck, and your system is a fair whack simpler, so you may aswell give it a shot i guess

i will dyno mine once its running, my mechanic is midway through installing one now

i was aware of those kits, but have also been tolded i can get the dizzy recurved to suit anyway

which reminds me, i never went and got that bloody electronic dizzy

Id say the suck through setup is simpler to play with but also a little more temperamental in the hot climate and as far as I remember there still is a fiat ritmo fwd hatch with a fiat tc 2 ltr in Perth that runs the same setup with a weber and water spray and he often blows away the big guns in his little 700kg missile in the SS series it makes about 300 rwhp. He has no probs without intercooler / injection.
L18 do the maths on the compression and boost figures. Look at turbo sites and maybe some real life figures and details for guidance. Ive got one of those ignition control units from Jaycar it was plugged into an alfa 2ltr dont know anything else about it or how you can modded to run in other engines?? Your theory on retard sounds good if it can be done. Do you know any other details on the engine???? dizzy etc???

I've played around with a draw through setup before on an A14, so I've got a baseline in mind for the setup and tune. We didn't have too much trouble with the other setup once we got a handle on the tune and got control of the detonation - but we set that up from scratch with absolutely no turbo experience beforehand, and we learnt alot along the way with that.

Running wet manifolds offers a crude form of intercooling, and a water injection system as we used previously is very effective also.

I don't know too many specifics on the actual engine yet, but it will be pulled down for inspection before it goes in obviously. and I'll have to have a look at the dissy's current setup as part of the inital tune even before I take it over to the dyno for final sorting. If the Jaycar kit can't do what I want, I'll use the same dissy setup I had on the old turbo A14 a few years ago, and I've got an idea to improve on that also.

Someone has obviously spent alot of time and money on doing it correctly judging by the quality of the fabrication work and some of the parts like the oil cooler, forged pistons, and the external wastegate etc. So hopefully it won't need much more than a freshen up and a little fine tuning.

Wish I didn't have to finish off the fencing around the backyard this weekend, or I'd be getting stuck straight into it!

Congrats Harry thats a great buy,,,youre going to have to change your avatar to Turbo_B110 or something.

Why cant you have the intercooler in front of the carb in a suck-thru setup. Wouldnt you just be cooling the air before it gets to the carb...or woould it make no difference as you wouldnt have any temp differential? Maybe a water to air system might work in that case. I understand not having the carb in front of the 'cooler could be a little dangerous as youre cooling fully mixed air and it may hit a hot spot and bang??? any answers??

doesn't work that way. Even if you could get a 100% efficient air to air intercooler (which you can't), it could only ever cool the air to ambient temperature.
A Water to air intercooler can theoretically exceed 100% efficiency, but there is little point in cooling the inlet charge a degree or two before you heat it up anyway.

The intercooler is only useful after the compressor, because as you compress air you heat it also - regardless of the conductive heating also transferred to the inlet charge. You want to cool it down as much as possible before it enters the engine.

You are right about the potential of an intercooler to explode if filled with a combustible mixture - one little backfire and it's a goner. But that doesn't stop the speedboat guys from doin it! Although I don't think CAMS would take too kindly to it...and I don't like the idea of things exploding and burning under my bonnet either!

Re: jaycar ignition

try and ask me what you will.

The thing here is that nobody has stated which jaycar boxes they're talking about. But basically there is only really one combination I think people are talking about.

There is the high energy ignition kit - there is the programmable kit - and possibly an older kit that simply replaces the points (doubt it though).

So anyway the basic kit removes switching load from the points and just uses it as a trigger to tell the ignition kit (jaycar box) when to spark - the box does management stuff so that you get accurate spark / dwell angle and stuff.

The idea with the programmable kit is to lock the dissy advance plate so that the kit retards or advances from a set point - hence the ability to store a lookup table for advanvce curve.

This reduced points load allows a closer points gap which in turn increases high RPM reliability and theoretically reducing points bounce a bit.

The programmable kit (current one) can store two different advance curves. it should be noted that they are forced advance curves and will not react to engine load etc in the sense that something with vacuum advance may do. On a traditional dissy the vacuum advance is progressive up to a maximum alteration of advance. On the Jaycar box you can chop up your vacuum advance unit and use its leg to turn on a microswitch - and thus trigger a set alteration in advance for that state. Prob is that the vacuum advance change happens all at once rather than smoothly so it seems to result in some bizzare changes in engine running near idle - off idle etc.

I guess should the need arise you could take that microswith feed to the programmable kit and have a pressure switch so that it was tripped when a preset boost pressure was realised. I will have to check to see if the vacuum advance setting can be set to retard rather than advance.

The other thing is the High Energy kit which helps manage the coil for maximum spark. It seems to only (from memory) work with the programmable kit rather than just on its own.

It's good stuff if you set it up right - and it allows on the fly changes via keypad to your curve. This would be essential if you were running a questionable or highly modified setup as you can tweak it when you need. Or if you run a ####ty grade of fuel you can pick out your other (1 of 2) curves for low octane etc.

The programmable kit also offers ignition cut out rev limiting and keypad immobiliser security.

NUFF said - I hope.