i know not many ppl on here like rotars but i do and a freind of a freind has one sitting in his garage and i may have a chance to buy it, i dont have all the details but ive heard it ran in a 626 but was blown due to the use of nitrous oxide. does anyone have any advice as id like to know whether it being blown due to the nos may have damaged it or just blown a seal or something? any advice please thanks guys.

Hmm, I'm biased, but I'd think the terms blown/rotary/nitrous in the same sentence would indicate a very cheap..almost free pricetag. Don't pay more than $150 for it. And be prepared for possibility that it could be more than a seal. Personally, I'd stay away from it. Unless you have another friend who rebuilds rotaries, and can get the parts at trade price.
They are only held together by 8 or 10 bolts. Can you pull it down and get a quote for a rebuild before agreeing to buy it, or agreeing on a price? I've got a few books on rebuilding rotaries (A previous life). They are in a box somewhere with my old car magazines.

Chris

Very good chance that at least one of the rotors and/or housings are damaged which will mean a costly rebuild....good second-hand rotors go for about $200 each and housings are dearer.
Add to this the cost of a general rebuild ($2500-$3000) and it has the potential of costing you around 4 grand just for a standard rebuilt block.

In my experience, second-hand jap import rotaries (well, 13B turbos at least) will run forever if you don't try and stress them too much and only cost around a thousand bucks!

I'd avoid it like it had a reportable disease.
There's gotta be better value for money elsewhere.

If you can pull it apart, do it it as rotors are easy as to strip. When it's apart look for obvious apex seal damage and horizontal stripes (rotor chatter) on the chrome plating inside the rotor housings.The chatter stops the apex seal sealing and indicates the ignition timing was wrong. Any vertical marks in the housing mean they are rubbish.As does peeling chrome. Look for scuff marks on the side housing indicating over revving and bearing damage. This usually means the side seals are toast as well. And also check the eccentric shaft(crank) for straightness, many engines are rebuilt with bent ones and it always ends in tears. If you can't strip it ,don't touch it, find one with a warranty so at least it only costs you your time...

Quote:
what does this mean general rebuild? as in each time u blow a seal or equivalent of a head gasket it costs 2500 to 3000? or do u mean if u get a proffesional to do a full build up?

Yeah sorry.....a professional will charge about that for a full rebuild, which basically you need if you blow a seal.

Actually its usually a bit less than that. A reputable engine builder I know of recently charged $2800 for a full rebuild of a 13B turbo block, including machining rotors for 3mm seals, porting, and dowelling....which are all extra costs.

i had just put my deposit down for my 13b friday arvo and gettn my mate 2 check it out for me ive never owned a rotor..
come out of a s6 twin turbo.
2000$ with ecu and gearbox

2 grand that sounds pretty good, a guy i knows mate is selling a 12a for 500 bucks but he told me that the apex sels are gone coz he ran too much nitrous through it, i wonder whether itd be a good idea to buy it. does anyone know how much apex seals cost?