sr20 is a physically a bigger engine compared to the compact ca18
Even bellhousing area is huge.
The heads have the biggest issues with hydraulic lash adjusters
pressing on the locker arm to the camshaft leaves no tappet clearance
or adjustment for any wear over time. The rocker arm often derail also
and the only solution is a very expensive one with tomei aftermarket
Lash killer kit for about 1500aud plus shipping for starters.

The complicated head architecture of the sr20 is due to the better port
angle they tried to achieve which made them taller anyway and with boost
the port angle is not really an issue.

If going NA id rather a qr20de with better rods, no balance shaft,
aftermarket exhaust and some other external tweaks and 200hp in NA is
there with lighter more compact engine.
Compared with the SR20, the QR20 fully dressed at 110kg weighs maybe 20-25kg less
and with the removal of the balance shafts youd hit almost 100kg.
The QR20 is also 30mm shorter than the SR20 for fitment and clearance issues.

pig dog most guys that swap the sr for rb end up with a car with bulk hp but doesnt handel

luke fink (top drifter in aus ) s14 with sr20

but thats the same sorta thing to be said about 1200s with SRs isnt it, its because people are going for more HP and the extra weight doesnt really bother them

guess all datto's should stay with a15's then :)

Ask Luke Fink whats being done and spend on that SR
its not for everyday datsun owners thinking of a conversion.
Its like saying Pikes Peak winners only win with
toyota 3sge and suzuki v6 twin turbos.

another route is a nap-z bottom end and a ka head big carbs and 250+ horses

jordan, all depends on how much power you want

Well I am glad we all finally settled that question. But what if i don't really care about the difference between too much power and way too much power? I know this might be anathema to most out there but i just want a build that is responsive and can run aircon and has cruise control. I am even thinking of running an auto box! (getting lazy in my old age). Has anyone tried to fit a CA18DE (T optional) with an auto AND the electrics AND dash into a 1200 Ute?

i know dash and auto box has been done before, if you dont want to go to the trouble of shortening a dash you can just slap the instrument panel in the 1200 dash, thats been done before too.

The problem with CA's is their age. - Rebuild em' before you put them in, or buy one from a car you know the history of & you'll be happy.

Same can be said for SR's although the majority we've brought in have been in far better condition than the CA's. - That being said, SR may be a better drop in proposition, although it's a more involed swap.

Ive done a couple of CA swaps into 1200's myself, and helped a mate with a s15 SR conversion in his, and to be honest, I wouldn't do either of them again on any of my cars, purely because of the cost. - For the $ you CAN spend doing a top notch conversion, you can but yourself a silvia.

How much of the swap can you do your self?

Ask your self what you want to do with the car, street, track, drag? - Do you want it need to be engineered / legal?

My street 1200 ute has a l20b in it atm, because I got it for nix & didn't want to spend alot of coin on it and use up some parts I had lying around.