Home away from home 
Joined: 2009/12/2 3:52
From Central Coast NSW
Group:
Registered Users
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cheers for the help bud . but i wigged out for nothing lol haha no need to fuss , all is fixed. just made new mounts. engine sits where it was sposed to yeh bottom of sump is level. car is back together now anyway. and no , payed 4 grand because im already doing the ute and work 60 hr weeks so i dont have time or the skills to do it myself. i was going to buy the maddat crossmember if it didnt work. and no it was my fault i got them to fit the engine before i provided them with the booster. payed 4 for the whole engine bay and tunnel seam welded,holes removed ,car stripped , painted bay , all new tunnel, repair rail rust both sides , repair front apron , all rust work in front end, and to fit everything i bring including diff and tailshaft to have the car back on the road. very worth it in my opionion seeing as i dont have the time. pateience haha.. if youve seen my ute build id say im the most pateient person ever , owned it for 2 years now , its been under primer since decemeber. slowly collecting parts to have it how i want. \ just overreacted and stressed thinking it was a major problem when it was nothing and was fixed in a couple of hours. anyway enough blabber. does anyonne have 120y castor rods . as i machined my stanza ones down to the right length but would prefer 120y ones just for piece of mind.
also , with the tie rod bar .(the piece with thread on each end) i ordered stanza tie rod ends, and they have the bigger top thread for the ball joint . but the thread for the tie rod end is too small . the original 1200 one has big thread for the rod but too small up top, does this mean i need 120y tie rod ends?
another question . whats a radiator worth to be made up around 450x600 thanks
(front gaurds are only sitting on dont start picking the body line being out)
Posted on: 2010/10/1 18:16
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