I have a great idea buy my engine and box its an auto doesn't leak .

If you dont mind keeping us posted, I would like to know if you fix it. Will post up my results when get coupe bck on the road.

hey nick, sorry mate love my manuals to much.

old-school , no worries ill keep u updated if i sort mine out

must be only the ca gear box that dose it if got a rb box on ca bellhousing an it dosent do it that may be some thing to look at just a dear way to fix it

Dont the ca boxes have like a plate where the shifter comes out of it and i think theres a breather on that top plate aswell. maybe the gasket on that plate has gone , just a thought

well i actually had it on a mates hoist last night and couldnt see any oil around the shifter outlet at all so maybe its not coming from there . there was a slight leak from extension housing seal but may also be coming from the breather. looks like thats not my only problem now either. when releasing the clutch now to drive off the clutch makes a fairly loud cracking noise from bellhousing area. although that could have something to do with the way the back tires got treated last night. ;)

Hi there... New to these forums, I signed up specifically for this thread. I have an sr20/S13 box installed in a 1975 holden gemini sedan, and I have the same problem and very badly. The car has 250rwkw, and the engine has been installed on quite an angle. Ive read that to fit the SR in gemini, you need to modify the sump to make it rear oil pickup, and to allow the front of the sump to clear the steering. Mine has not had this, the original installer has mounted it high enough to clear the steering with the front oil pickup sump, then the trans mounts have been lowered about 35mm from the floor so that the box does not hit the trans tunnel.

Ive been working on the brakes and suspension on this car, and it is a dedicated track machine. I discovered last track day that when hammering it as hard as possible on the track I get pressureised trans fluid flying out the stick hole in the top of the trans. Its under enough pressure to nealy empty my box (and I assume this means its not just a problem with the oil level being slightly too high), and to get it all over the cabin, even across the back window! The seal is old and cracked, and the breather pipe is clear.

I have purchsed a new seal for the stick, and plan to get it installed and get the car on the track for the next track day by february, but after having read this thread I am starting to fear that the seal isnt going to fix my problem, and the only solution may be to modify the sump, engine mounts and trans mounts to get it more level.

Theres some pics of how the interor ended up looking here (though is doesnt show that its up the rear window) or go back to page 1 of the thread if your interested in the car.

http://www.gemisa.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=23&start=40

Those who have this problem and report the engine being on an angle, how much of an angle is yours, and how much fluid are you loosing out the top? Has anyone solved it yet?

Well, I obtained a brand new factory seal, and installed it using a couple of hose clamps to make sure it was on really well. It took me some research to find that you could force/stretch the seal over the stick, and although it was tight it got over without tearing. I have had a track day since, and the seal has solved the problem. Even with the slope of the engine, no more leak :) Heres the pic of what I ran with.

its from the breather.....

cv boot will work to seal the shifter,

extend the breather up hi, i put it into a little catch can in the engine bay, no more problems......

Things iv'e learnt in the last month are:

This is a common problem. S13 boxes which is what most ca18 boxes are, are known for this. Nissan changed the box for the S14 to rectify this by modifying the seperator plate to restrict some of the oil flow to the rear of the box under hard driving. So if you need to replace your box in future, find sn S14 box from an SR20 and change the bell housing (swaps straight over). When you have the box apart you can see how they've changed the plate, and added a few other small oil features.
As mentioned above, I used a CV boot and it works fine with a full box, I made sure it was zip tied very tightly though. My breather is clear also. Also worth a mention that my motor/box is on slightly more of an angle than most conversions so it is solvable.

And in regards to the oil drain from the rocker, NO you can't remove it. Another common problem these motors have under hard driving/extended high RPM is oil build up in the head as it pumps up faster than it drains, even with that line there. People who build these motors for extended high RPMs actually modify the head or add extra lines behind the head where the two welsch plugs are.