PIGDOG I was half tempted to put something in about "Bump steer spacers" in my last post, but took it out.
These are actually roll centre adjusters and in theory should not change bump steer, which is caused by the arc of the steering system being in a different plane to that of the LCA (sorry if you already knew it).

i.e when the suspension moves in jounce or rebound, the different arcs cause a steering input to the wheels.
A spacer between the Steering arm and strut does not change the relative arcs of the Steering system and LCA so should have no effect on bump steer.

Having said this sometimes the bump steer is not a linear effect over the rang of suspension travel (Which is bad), it therefore would change the static point on a bump steer curve which would in turn change the rate of bump steer for jounce and rebound.

This is starting to sound very easy. I can literally take the struts with arms attached straight out of the stanza, swap the tops, do the sleeves, put in the inserts and bolt into the ute.

I have some ZG flares in the shed from a zed project that should fit too.

Thanks again for the info

what year is the ute you are putting it into? it may be even easier if its a later model ute.

The only other thing you will need is the late ute or late 120y radious rods. or to mod yours if its an early ute

mcgee, roll centre adjuster...yeah thats the name i should have really used i guess, bad habbit from always seeing them refered to as bump steer spacers. sort of know the theory but have never really bothered doing anything about either on my 1200
cant say i really noticed too much bump steer in my 1200, probably due to the vary small amount of suspention travel

I wonder how hard it would be to design a CNC drawing for a roll center adjuster that spaces down and angles parallel with the brake disk. It would bolt to the strut then another set of bolts for the steering arm. The offset from the strut would also increase camber.

Probably cost more than custom struts tho.

1985

lightload,
I am not sure why you would bother, both Maddat and datsport make them and they are not very expensive.
maddat also do adjustable caster rods, which I currently have in my coupe (you will need to enlarge the holes in the chassis mounting part to fit the larger diam rods though).

Yeah will get the caster rods later, probably when I start upgrading disk's, calipers and diff.

Out of curiosity any idea what shock length bluebird 910?

Works been a little slow so had to change plans. Instead of sectioning the stanza struts and having to buy inserts I went out and got a set of R31 struts thinking it would save me $200... Pulled the springs off the R31's and the inserts are original and loose as.

I was also going to get 4kg/mm coil over sleeve kit but to save money for now I'd like to use either the 1200 springs or stanza springs.

Questions:
What is the spring rate of stanza GL front springs?
If they are stiffer than the 1200's I'll cut them off and use them but if its not much different then I'd be better to keep the stanza struts complete so I can sell them.

Is it possible to replace the R31 strut oil with engine oil to get them working again until I can afford some nice inserts and springs to match?

Does it matter that all the rubber boots around the ball joints/rod ends I want to use have perished? Stanza they came from was sitting for a long time so the joints are ok but boots gone.

Thanks for the help

(ps, I know I should probably wait until I have good inserts and springs but I'm well keen to fabricate something for the ute at the moment).

As it is an 85 model ute all you need to change is the balljoint and steering arm to stanza items.

So you are using r31 struts now? I would have stayedwith the stanza struts or home bluebird ones and cut them down (then they are pretty much the same as r31 but you get more camber.
1200 and stanza springs are both pretty soft. 200b or bluebird rear springs are the right diameter and a bit stiffer.
Dont think the stanza struts will really be worth more with springs though.
If the ball joints and tierod end are still tight, you can just get new boots for them and regrease them.

You can't really do much fabrication till you have the inserts, as the spring perches will have to be moved if you go shorter inserts later