I did this to fit the wasted spark coils to the dizzy: http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=25480

(Mostly because I'm running out of room in the engine bay.) Looks kind of stock, at least the leads come come the same place.

It's just 4mm aluminium plate, maybe you could try something similar. 30 min Epoxy on close fitting and coarsely sanded aluminium sticks really well, that's all that's holding the plat to the dizzy.

Sikyne I think I will go one step further and do what you are but with a way to just bolt in the trigger wheel..

Questions:

1) What would be the optimal amount of teeth you would need for an adequate trigger wheel for your distributor?

2) Is Aluminium good for wheel use? (I'm guessing it has to be a magnetic type material for the hall to read)

Matt, alloy wont work for a trigger wheel unless you are triggering an optical sensor. As for the number of teeth, 4 would be easiest, and you wouldnt have to have missing teeth. as there is one tooth per firing event. But generally, more teeth gives the ecu a better idea where the engine position is. I just went with 12 teeth on the sprocket because it makes it a good diameter to work inside the distributor body. It also has a bit more resolution than a 4 tooth wheel.

I had thought about haveing the wheel bolt in. Infact, when this sprocket drops onto the unmodified bottom shaft, it locks onto the pins of the advance weights via the two bolt holes in the sprocket. the top part of the distributor shaft would then be used to locate it centeraly. The weights may interfere with the sensor though.

The other way to have the wheel bolt in, is to use the small bolt that holds the two parts of the std shaft together(in the top), and a sleave that clamps down onto the wheel. I'll have a play today.


That looks quite neat Lamby.

I figured as much about the alloy, but had to ask...

I know it isn't cheap for everyone else but I want to machine a wheel either for the crank pulley or the old dist. Depending on how extensive the CNC setup has to be I could cheap these out for everyone too, Or a laser cut batch. You cant get much cheaper than you are going now though.

Just one thing worth mentioning. people dont have to follow all or any of the steps or ideas that I use, but if there are deviations, unfortunatly the configuration and tune file that i was going to send out wont be much good.

Thats offer sound great Matt. If it had 12 teeth for a dissy wheel and the center hole matched the small shaft diameto would be very good. Im not sure yet if 1 or 2 teeth have to be removed.

Go with it and if you want to try a machined wheel PM me and I can work one into the work rotation.

There is little to compromise using Lambys awesome and simple idea
using a coil pack with four outlets like a Ford Mustang/escort/taunus
and others. The leads coming out of it will look stock and cool.

Heres the cheapest I could find, others maybe have more luck for a vw
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil ... 53?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen

The one I would use is this one though, someone might find cheaper again
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Spark-Ign ... sh=item2343b5406d&vxp=mtr



A circular cover could be use with a cut out of the unit to secure down
over the top by the 4 holes then painted black, the circular outer would
emulate the final round dizzie look.

I've just realized that in the US, the 1995-1999 Hyundai excel is called the Accent. This is the car the US guys will be looking for the Throttle body, cam sensor and wasted spark coils. don't forget to get the wiring harness connectors and a couple of inches of wiring for the TPS and cam sensor.
The air and water temp sensors(Delco)can be found on GM V6 engines and others from the 90's, get the connectors for these while you are there.
You will also need a GM 3 bar map sensor and connector, but these wont be available at wreckers.
Ignition modules will also be needed. Either two single channel units like the Bosch 0227100124 or a two channel module like the Bosch 0227100200.
You can run 4 individual coils also(if you like the look), but you will need a 4 channel module like the Bosch 211($$$), but they will still be firing wasted spark(two at one time) when using the Microsquirt.

I guess we have some gear stock here at work that might work well. 4140 steel that just needs a few machined features.

Sorry to cut in :/. I'm thinking of using more Nissan stuff. I find there's a bit of e15et stuff laying around cheap. I'd rather drill one hole and make a thin adapter plate to fit the e15et cas. I like the 1 injector job. Its simple and cheap but I might try go Nissan tb if I can. Is there a certain size the inlet manifold should be and how far away should the injector and tb be?