Get:
1. complete strut, spring and all
2. lower arm
3. radius rod
4. outer tierod ends
Don't pay more than $100 unless desperate.
The car will sit up to 2 inches higher. You might want to fix that, by trimming a bit off the springs with an angle grinder. Or by getting "re-set" springs from pedders etc.
You'll need brake fluid too.
I've never re-used the 1200 brake master cylinder. Does your master cylinder have a single or dual circuit? does 1 or 2 lines come out of it? (one for front, one for back)
I normally use the 180B mastercylinder, but anything from the Datsun of the 70s with a disc/drum config will do. Also get the bias splitter block too. I've only had trouble when mixing and matching master cylinder and brake line splitter blocks (normally bolted to firewall or strut tower), so get the brake master cylinder and splitter block from the same car.
Make sense?
To do it properly, give yourself a couple of days, you might have to go back to the wreckers, if your brake lines aren't long enough. I normally remake my lines, because I have a pipe double flaring tool

So there. You aren't just swapping the struts, you are also upgrading the brake mastercylinder at the same time.