OK, i've read all about the Stanza /180B /200B strut upgrades & all provide a significant upgrade in braking performance, but all come with a significant penalty in unsprung mass & track increase.
While many would see the track increase as desirable, it may in fact be illegal if the letter of the law is applied, at least, if it is done without an engineers report.

For a mild street car, these brake upgrades are probably overkill, while the track increase may mean that flares & guard modifications are required. The increase in unsprung mass helps to kill the ride quality, neither of which i want.

So here's the Challenge.
Vehicle,... Datsun 1200. The objective,...
To provide a modest, but measurable improvement in braking performance, using readily available components, but with an absolute minimum increase in track or unsprung mass.
Any modifications or special parts required must be able to be done in a lathe & a drill press. The components need not be exclusively Datsun, & the rotor can be either solid, or ventilated Here's a few thoughts to start things off.

Possible options
A. Use 1200 drum brake struts & fit the kit parts from Neil's [Dattoman_1000] Datsun 1000 disc brake conversion.

B. Use Sunny [B310] struts & brakes as is, ... or with Volvo, or Commodore calipers [direct bolt on i believe] & with suitable rotors. [I don't know about the track variation with these struts.]

C. This is where you come in with your proven recomendations. Take it from here blokes, but it's gotta be reasonably light & narrow.

P.S. The car has the lowered King springs & this makes the track dimention a higher priority as i would prefer to not need to roll the lip on the guards if i can avoid it, i'm too bloody lazy.

Option B, the sunny upgrade. On the street it will be plenty. Look at the weight difference.

havnt thought about the 120Y or coupe discs?
they bolt straight in, but obviously not as agressive breaking upgrade as sunny or commodore or anything.
When you do this you should use the coupe mastercylinder.

Elliott

not too sure whats in the 1000 conversion kit, or if it'll bolt up to 1200 drum struts but in a 1000 you can go 1600 or similar calipers and mitsubishi scorpian rear discs, all thats needed is to make up a bracket to hold the caliper.

Boof are you saying that Scorpian rear disks are a bolt up for the front of a 1000?

option B - with the volvo calipers and the sunny outer hubs turned down to 140mm

if my mind's on the right track .... thats what i ended up with in my 1000 years ago. the discs bearings were the right internal dia to fit the stub axle and made up a plate for the 1600 calipers. ran a standard master cylinder. (gottsa find all those old pics .... in a bloody shoe box here somewhere )
she stopped fantastic, also had pads made specially from race brakes in footscray,vic, from memory ???

Low1000
The car is a 1200 coupe, so it already has the stock disc brakes. I am looking for the next step up.

Boofhead
The 1000 kit is based around two plasma cut plates that bolt to the holes where the drum brake backing plates went, plus two CNC machined hubs. These hubs mount the Lazer ventilated rotors, while the plates mount the matching calipers. Weight increase is minimal & track is unchanged.

Cable_Tie & Pro240C
Does one need the B310 Sunny lower suspension arms when using these struts, & if so, what effect do they have on the track measurement?
What additional benefits accrue from using the Volvo calipers & ??? rotors on the turned down hubs. Are these calipers the four piston, & three wheels per hydraulic circuit variety?
[Thats one piston in each caliper & one rear wheel cylinder per hydraulic circuit, from memory]

It looks like i will be working away near the Victorian border for about a month, but i will still log in regularly, but maybee not as often.

been trying to remember it all, but don't recall any machining to the hubs being required with scorpion discs ( not vented or anything though) and the backing plate sounds familiar with bolting back to the drum mounts.
didn't change the track much, ended up using 2 spacers per wheel and longer skyline wheel studs to chage that gotta luv having been young and on a really tight budget for doing those dodgy things and not thinking twice about it.

yep the volvo uses a trianganel split system and they are a 4pot calliper. i used a 76 model bitsofshity lancer booster (strait bolt on) and a l200 ute master cylinder. very ezy and works well