Quote:I would be very surprised if any engineer approved this mod for road use in QLD. Certainly would need to be mod plated, any mechanic who saw this during a Safety Certificate inspection would fail it on the spot unless there was a mod plate with the appropriate code engraved on it.

To get approval, you would at least have to grind the rolled edge down and plate the strut top, or better yet, cut and shut the whole original section 9/16" inwards. Of course if you really wanted to, I guess you could just cover up the evidence with a strut brace

Wow, your Safety Certificate Inspections make our smog inspections seem nice.
I was a bit aprehensive when i did this mod to my old 1200. I would constantly check to see if anything was cracking or distorting. About 8yrs later, I was t-boned in an intersection. The next day, brused and limping, i checked out the car. I was surprised to find that the right side mount (direct hit) was ok and the left side was bent but didn't break through.
I still would not mind having something a little more robust , than just cut and grinding.
I posted some pics under Ang94541

You guys have to realise that those guidelines in the Datsun Competition Manual are for off road use... As a certifying engineer I get very wary of people chopping the struts towers apart, to get camber changes. I know there is a certain pose factor with adjustable strut tops but it pays to have them installed by professionals. If the unspeakable happens and you and your baby are in an accident your insurance won't be voided by some arsehole insurance guy claiming you have" dangerous or unauthorised modifications". My road Datto has a redrilled crossmember and has the old holes filled up. Doing it this way is stealthy and is difficult to detect if you get my drift as certification can get costly.......

Thank you Stirlingmac for bursting this camber bubble (seriously). This notice is well heeded and should be considered for ALL mods, not just suspensions.
Angelo
ps- I never did, nor do I plan to, modify the struts for the 240Z calipers. Do you remember that topic awhile back?

Well stated Wayne, I agree with you 100%. I have done exactly the same with my road car. Looks standard as far as warrant of fitness are concerned. The other advantage is that you actually increase the track in the front by doing it this way...very useful especially if the diff you are using is wider than standard.

What about K-Mac Strut tops they're adjustable in the camber as well as castor, are they too expensive????
good adjustability though.

i tried moving the control arm mounts on my race car but found it upset the handling. I'm not sure why but I think it had somthing
to do with the track rod as its the same length as the mounts are apart. I cut and shut the control arms which was ok for a race car but would be ilegal for the road although alot of rally cars get away with it.
I also found that there are 2 size ball joints that fit sunny , stanza and late 120y arms, I think the longer ones come from 180Bs but they are about 10mm longer and look original so I'm shure rogo would be no problem. you would need to check before ordering though. This method would be legal and a bolt up job ( no cutting )

olboy,maybe you needed spacers between the steering arm & the strut,to get the lower control arm away from parrallel to the ground,which will cause drastic camber changes on compression.also,did you mean that 180b (610) lower control arms are the 10 mm longer ones,not sunny(b310),because i know sunny arms are the same as 1200.so the recipe seems to be,to me at least,180b lower control arms,200b steering arms,adjustable castor rods,& a good wheel alignment.did anyone mention that 200b strut tops are also offset,and have the same size hole in them to fit the strut tops.this could also add some more neg,but at the top,not just at the bottom.i think i'll have to get the tape measure out & visit a wrecking yard.

B310gx I ment the ball joints not the control arms. I'm not shure whether its the 180B ones or not but I think its them I just know that i bought some new ones once and they were shorter between the center line of the strut and the 4 mounting holes so I took them back and swapped them for longer ones I'm sorry I don't know which ones are the long ones but I do know that I have had 2 different ones maybe someone else knows more


You can live in your car but you carn't race your house

Now this is testing to my memory banks..
As far as I remember The lower arms on the Stanza and Sunny are the same coz I have a Sunny and I bought the front end of a Stanza for bigger brakes(same as bluebird brakes) and
1200 lower arms are shorter but you can put the Sunny/Stanza lower arms in which are longer. All the springs are the same diamenter except Stanza has a heavier rate spring to support the L series motor, then the Sunny (a12,a14) then the 120Y (a12), then the 1200(a12) ,,,,question is when using Sunny or Stanza Lowers do you have to use Sunny sway bars??